4wd Hub Replacement

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603 z71

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hey does anyone know a part number from fastenal for the three bolts that hold the hub assembly on?
 

98chevy4x4

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Im thinkin about replacing my hubs and i found some on autopartswarehouse.com for $91 a piece with 1 year warranty do yall think it would be better to just get some from my local parts store cause i wanna order some cheap ones and something bad happen you know just like to know if anybody has order these or something like it.
 
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What lower control arm are those? I have the same ones and I need to know if they accept the 45 or 47 mm lower ball joints. Are these LCA's stamped or forged?
 

kink3

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hey does anyone know a part number from fastenal for the three bolts that hold the hub assembly on?

I realize this is a super old question, but it's a sticky and I needed to know this info too. So here is the GM part number for the bolts. The were $7/ea at my local Chevy dealer, which is cheaper than any website I could find (with shipping).

GM Part no. 15995614
 

454cid

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I didn't know 1/2 ton hubs bolt on from the outside. My 8-lugs bolt on from the backside, and the CV joint is kinda in the way. Sure wish my rotors were slip on.
 

fuzzie12

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i am just about ready to start this project because my wifes f hona broke a ball joint thank god she wasnt flying down the highway just backing up from the bank had to replace everything under the front booy what a nitemare beware o5 hondas are junk they should recall all of these i found that if u spray all the bolts with pb blaster it helps only had to cut one off so first time i have done ball joint and hub assembly seems that my 1997 k1500 is set up the same way and another ???? rear end pan replace ment how many pints does it take???
 

Cody Shepherd

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I wish I would’ve known about the heat, I’m sitting here looking at 2 bolts on this hub with the heads broken off ‍♂️♂️ Haha I think I’m just gonna replace the whole spindle
 

Schurkey

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Written up by Kawamatt2.
Thank you. Generally well-done. I do have a couple of corrections and suggestions.

As you can see from the above picture there are three hole on the lug mounting face that allow access to the hub to knuckle bolts. I believe these bolts were 15mm.
No, but they may have required a 15mm socket.

These hubs come fully assembled with the abs sensor and wire. I got these from autozone for like $140 or $150 a piece. These are timken units.
I'm not sure why you're replacing the hubs, but you chose good replacements. BEWARE cheap "economy" hubs. They have a very poor reputation due to early failure.

Didn't take any pictures of tightening the hub down but i have a few thoughts on it. Spec calls for 133 ft-lbs on the bolts. I added some anti-seize on the bolts to hopefully avoid having to use heat the next time i service the hubs on this truck.
I generally reduce the torque on fasteners that would be installed "clean and dry" by 20% when using anti-seize. The anti-seize acts as a thread-and-head lubricant; the bolt gets just as "tight" with less torque because there's less friction. Using the full torque spec for "clean and dry" on a lubricated bolt leads to over-tightening and perhaps bolt failure.

If your calipers didn't come loaded go ahead and insert your pads. They only go one way so don't worry about left right or front back.
This is NOT CORRECT. The inboard (piston side) pads are the same left and right. The outboard pads are NOT THE SAME, due to the stamped sheet-metal wear-indicator riveted to the pad, visible in your photo--near the two caliper pins. (photo below) Therefore the outer pad is specific to Left vs. Right.

The wear indicator should be on the leading edge of the pad, when the wheel is rotating in the normal (forward) direction. With the way the calipers are mounted on the GMT400s, this means the wear indicator is "below" the pad when the caliper is attached to the vehicle. (Opposite side of caliper from bleeder screw.) (Outboard pad placement in the photo below would be correct for left-side caliper.)

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it's not a 1500 it's 8 lug for one thing.
Yup. K-series 6-lug trucks come apart as described.

8-lug trucks are a huge pain in the asp.

let me add this, as for your aliper barely slide off deal, this is why ANYTIME you go to remove it you FIRST pry the pads over to compress the caliper piston. a Big c clamp or using a screwdriver/prybar works to do this. C -clamp is the best of course.
YES, BUT make sure the bleeder screw is open, otherwise you'll push the contaminated fluid in the caliper backwards through the system--which can play hell with ABS controllers.

Any time a person does brake work--replacing pads, etc--the fluid should be FLUSHED from the master cylinder to the wheel cylinders (including calipers, which are just another style of wheel cylinder.) Clean out the reservoir first; wipe all the scuzz off the plastic. Fill with fresh fluid. Ideally, you'd pressure-bleed the system from a pressure bleeder that keeps the fluid separated from the compressed air with a rubber diaphragm. (i.e., not one of those crappy "garden sprayer" hand-pump bleeders.)

The early RWAL ABS (iron housing) has a bleeder screw right on it. Later aluminum-housing RWAL have no bleeder screws. The 4-wheel ABS mechanisms from '92 to...99 (?) REQUIRE a scan tool and special procedure to properly bleed the ABS controller.
 
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