4L60E Messed up? Help Within

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I lost R/2/4 with a BANG in October. Finally took her to the trans shop this week for a rebuild or replacement. Just waiting to hear the options/cost. Was backing up the boat, gave it a little gas to get over a hump, and BANG! Followed by some spinning/whirring sounds. Hoping to have the ol' girl back on the road very soon. I miss my truck!
 

Tamayo

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I have a question I could use some help on. A couple months back I was out driving, went to my grandma's house, everything was working good, a couple hours later when I left I started the truck up put it in drive and it would run but the engine would rev up but would put in the gears unless I slowly let off the gas and reverse does not work either. I checked all fluids except for differential fluid which seems to leak oil. I should be home this weekend to take a closer look but could the loss of fluid cause something like that? It doesn't sound like it grinds or any harsh sounds
 

df2x4

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when you change the tranny do you have to swap computer with it

Depends on what transmission the truck originally had, what you're changing it to, and the year of the truck. But most of the time the answer is yes, you'll need to reprogram or replace the PCM for a transmission swap.
 

df2x4

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got a 98 truck putting tranny in and got a 97 truck tranny. both are 4l60e.

You should be fine then. No need to mess with the PCM if you're putting the same model transmission back in.
 

James2406

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Am even allowed to reply to this? Sorry if not. '96 305 2WD

WOT or on a grade feels shuddering in peddle

WOT downshift feels bad, like the shudder but worse. Not sure if TC?

Trans shop flushed fluid and it went away for a couple months. Came back, I flushed it. Went away for a few months. Is back and seems worse now. Have a TC, just wondering if it's just trans out and bolt the new one on or if I need to do specific measurements, special installation proces.
 

mattc95

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97 K1500 Here. 155K miles on original transmission. Transmission has started shifted hard/delayed going into 1 and 2. This only happens when the transmission really gets up to temp. Fluid issue or just worn out parts?
 

93chevyluvr

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Written by Dok Erik Von Broski

This will be of some help:



1. Slow, slipping or no reverse: low/reverse clutches are worn out, fluid leak in the reverse apply circuit, or broken sun shell. It is possible to remedy a fluid problem by removing the check ball from its cage in the case in the rear of the trans may help (must remove valve body), or adding a high-viscosity additive such as Lucas Transmission additive or other seal restorer product.

2. No 3rd or 4th gear: 3-4/direct clutches are worn out. Remove & Replace.

3. Sudden grinding noise with no prior warning primarily in 2nd gear, behavior in reverse may be abnormal; sun shell is fractured. R&R. Try not to run or drive or further damage could result.

4. No 2nd or 4th gear. 2-4 band is slipping. Servo seals may be damaged (can be fixed without removing trans. Otherwise, 2-4 band is worn out. R&R.

5. Trans shifts into gear harshly, 3rd gear starts, manual 2nd available but no 1st, no 4th, and no TCC lockup: No power to transmission, or trans is in limp-home mode. Check wiring, and make sure transmission electrical connector is plugged in. Easy fix.

6. No 1st or 4th available: shift A solenoid failed. Easy fix in the pan.

7. No 2nd or 3rd available: shift B solenoid failed: Easy fix in the pan.

8. No TCC lockup: Brake pedal switches improperly adjusted (always on), TCC solenoid failed (easy fix in the pan), TCC clutch worn out (must remove trans and replace TC).

9. TCC always locked: TCC apply solenoid circuit shorted to ground, TCC solenoid blockage (easy fix in pan), or TC broken (must remove trans and replace TC).

10. 1-2 Shift shudder at WOT; delayed or abnormal 1-2 shift: 1-2 accumulator piston cracked or stuck cocked in the bore. Easy fix in the pan.

11. Horrible noise in 4th and feels like the brakes are on: overrun clutches are applying due to a cracked or leaking forward piston. Overrun clutches will be worn out after 30 seconds of this behavior. Can be safely driven in D. R&R.

12. Soft shifting, gradual performance degradation: Leaking boost valve; clogged EPC filter screen, leaky seals. Transgo kit fixes first two without removing trans. Seal restorer may fix last problem, but probably R&R.

13. No forward movement in OD or D, but L2, L1 and R work: Forward sprag is broken. R&R. Try not to run or drive the car or further damage could result.

14. Extremely harsh shifts from P or N, normal shifts at WOT: EPC (Electronic Pressure Control) solenoid failed. Easy fix in pan.

15. Loud bang, grinding sound, loss of all gears, and a binding driveshaft: snapped output shaft. R&R.

16. Trans seems noisy when moving in 1st and Reverse, noise goes away instantly if you shift to N: Reaction planetary is worn out due to high miles or insufficient lubrication. Not a critical failure, but not a good sign either. R&R.

17. No movement in any gear: pump failure, or total loss of fluid. R&R, or refill pan and find the leak. If out of fluid, avoid running the engine until the trans is refilled to avoid pump damage. To check for pump failure, check fluid level with the engine off, then start the engine and recheck fluid level. If level does not go down when engine is running, the pump is broken.

18. Trans does not upshift out of first, speedometer reads zero at all times: VSS failure. Easy fix on rear of transmission.

19. Transmission does not shift automatically, only manually. Swap in a known-good PCM, check wiring, check other sensors.

20. 1-2 shift is delayed and harsh, may not shift into OD: Check TPS for smooth and linear electrical response over the entire range of motion. If not, replace.
I am looking at the 00-07-30-022D on all data and the sun bearing might be why the slow engagement in 4th I will look into it more but I don’t want replace my tranny if I ain’t gotta
 
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