2000 K3500 4x4 CC DRW

[cool_as_crap]

Man, those bearings look like complete ****. It makes me wonder what caused that.

Let us know what the machine shop says, hopefully they can fix that. I don't have a lot of experience on re-using cranks so I don't know whether that can be fixed or not.

I'm considering if its worth regrinding or not.
I'll take it in and see what they say.

Things i'm considering now, though the winner will probably be whatever gets the damn truck out of my garage fastest.

Option 1
Grind crank: $?
Reuse rods: $0
New Pistons: $390

Option 1.5
New stock spec crank: $270 (wow thats cheap)

Option 2 (489)
New crank: $270
New rods: $520
New pistons: $485

Or rotating assembly: $1380

Option 2 may be too much over what I want to pay, especially since I have to clearance the block.
I was all ready to stroke it but I never priced replacement rods.

 

[Biggershaft96]

At the machine shop i work at to regrind that would be about $200. But we also dont do that kind of engine work. You could probably polish it out with some fine emry cloth.

 

[Christian Steffen]

I'm considering if its worth regrinding or not.
I'll take it in and see what they say.

Things i'm considering now, though the winner will probably be whatever gets the damn truck out of my garage fastest.

Option 1
Grind crank: $?
Reuse rods: $0
New Pistons: $390

Option 1.5
New stock spec crank: $270 (wow thats cheap)

Option 2 (489)
New crank: $270
New rods: $520
New pistons: $485

Or rotating assembly: $1380

Option 2 may be too much over what I want to pay, especially since I have to clearance the block.
I was all ready to stroke it but I never priced replacement rods.

I dont think you'd have to clearance the block for a stroker, at least I don't recall having to (granted its been 3 or 4 years). IF you did go down that road you could simply assemble and check clearances.

Am I to assume option 1.5 includes pistons?

Hopefully the crank can be saved, but if not a stock replacement isn't a bad option. As you see, and I experienced, the stroker route gets spendy.

 

[cool_as_crap]

I dont think you'd have to clearance the block for a stroker, at least I don't recall having to (granted its been 3 or 4 years). IF you did go down that road you could simply assemble and check clearances.

Am I to assume option 1.5 includes pistons?

Hopefully the crank can be saved, but if not a stock replacement isn't a bad option. As you see, and I experienced, the stroker route gets spendy.

New pistons for sure.
Yeah cost is adding up with the stroker, but less machine shop work the better.
A pre balanced setup sounds awfully nice. If I can figure out how to install pistons at home I'll be set

 

[Supercharged111]

Looks like it can be cut but personally I wouldn't want more than a .010" under. Is that price for a new GM crank or reman? You've gotta watch out on the remans because they'll come with all different sized bearings. And I wouldn't bother with an aftermarket crank at all. Well, Scat I would but if you gave me an Eagle I'd throw it in the garbage. No parts store junk!

 

[Christian Steffen]

New pistons for sure.
Yeah cost is adding up with the stroker, but less machine shop work the better.
A pre balanced setup sounds awfully nice. If I can figure out how to install pistons at home I'll be set

Something like this is what you need, just google piston ring compressor.

https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648433-Piston-Ring-Compressor/dp/B001CZJ4JA

Looks like it can be cut but personally I wouldn't want more than a .010" under. Is that price for a new GM crank or reman? You've gotta watch out on the remans because they'll come with all different sized bearings. And I wouldn't bother with an aftermarket crank at all. Well, Scat I would but if you gave me an Eagle I'd throw it in the garbage. No parts store junk!

I'm going to guess that was for a reman? I bought a reman for a 350 once that was in the $200 range.

If the remans aren't worth a ****, then you might as well go to a stroker. haha

 

[Supercharged111]

The difference between a reman and a turned crank is that they'll usually tell you how much it needs to be turned up front, then they'll turn all the journals to the same diameter. Not broken used is the way to go. I spun a bearing on my LT1 a couple years ago and got a used crank for $50, had it polished for another $40 and it was like new.

 

[cool_as_crap]

Looks like it can be cut but personally I wouldn't want more than a .010" under. Is that price for a new GM crank or reman? You've gotta watch out on the remans because they'll come with all different sized bearings. And I wouldn't bother with an aftermarket crank at all. Well, Scat I would but if you gave me an Eagle I'd throw it in the garbage. No parts store junk!

Why no eagle love?
Even for a non-racing truck engine?

Something like this is what you need, just google piston ring compressor.

https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-648433-Piston-Ring-Compressor/dp/B001CZJ4JA



I'm going to guess that was for a reman? I bought a reman for a 350 once that was in the $200 range.

If the remans aren't worth a ****, then you might as well go to a stroker. haha

This install:
(I guess i just need a couple of torches)

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New eagle, but i guess they aren't a good brand?

 

[Christian Steffen]

Why no eagle love?
Even for a non-racing truck engine?


This install:
(I guess i just need a couple of torches)

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New eagle, but i guess they aren't a good brand?

Why not run slip fit wrist pins? Makes it easier to assemble.

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Thats how the pistons I have are.

Also the rods I have are eagle, no issues with 40k miles on the build. Crank is scat.

 

[Supercharged111]

Eagle has had porosity issues with some of their cranks. It does not instill confidence. I've heard of some of the import cranks being straight up wrong too. This is a while back now, so I don't recall specifics.