2000 K3500 4x4 CC DRW

[Mangonesailor]

I'm going to go aftermarket cam, I'm going to call up comp or lunati when i'm ready to see what else i'll need, probably an adjustable valvetrain. Hopefully I won't have to replace much else, depending on the cam.

ZZ502?

I dug around in my 454 vortec thread databank and found a Lunati cam recommendation. I didn't note who said it, so I can't give credit, but I'll look it up. (EDIT: Since the FSC site upgrade the forum thread numbers and post numbers are all different, and their search feature is not picking it up. They just can't stop messing with a good thing, can they.)

Lunati’s Voodoo series of camshafts deliver more area under the curve than any other series of camshafts. This means more throttle response, quicker acceleration, more vacuum and better efficiency. These factors, combined with maximum horsepower and torque, make Voodoo camshafts the perfect choice for a wide range of high performance applications.Hydraulic Roller Cam. Very strong increase in low RPM torque and power. Works well with OEM style injection, great inboard/outboard marine cam for economy and sking.

• Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 262/270
• Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 211/219
• Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .550/.550
• LSA/ICL: 112/106
• Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
• RPM Range: 1400-5200
• Includes: Cam Only

Part Number: 20010720
Previous Part Number: 60620

Hopefully you're getting heavier springs. Stockers are reported to be 85lbs.

I've also got a note from someone saying that if you go more than .500 lift of the cam you'll need to have the valve guides machined down to get more room as stock is .520.

 

[Christian Steffen]

Will do and thanks for the help.

BTW, can you share details of your stroker kit?
Where'd you get it and what kind of pistons? (hyperutectic or forged)

Here are the pistons:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mahle/644/BBC270280F03/10002/-1

The crank was a scat cast with 4.25" stroke which is good for like 700 hp (not that I'll ever be anywhere near that, unless I go to boost some day) and the rods were eagle I beam 6.385" I believe, its been 4 years.

 

[cool_as_crap]

ZZ502?

I dug around in my 454 vortec thread databank and found a Lunati cam recommendation. I didn't note who said it, so I can't give credit, but I'll look it up. (EDIT: Since the FSC site upgrade the forum thread numbers and post numbers are all different, and their search feature is not picking it up. They just can't stop messing with a good thing, can they.)


Hopefully you're getting heavier springs. Stockers are reported to be 85lbs.

I've also got a note from someone saying that if you go more than .500 lift of the cam you'll need to have the valve guides machined down to get more room as stock is .520.

Yeah FSC looks way different now, it was harder to find that 454 vortec thread.
The zz502 won't work for me.

However that Lunati cam that you linked is what i'm leaning toward, seems to be about the best i'll be able to do while still passing smog.
I'll call them and ask if they've heard of anyone passing with it, or if they have another recommendation.
That one is the most mild cam i can find on their site.
Thanks for the valve guide advice, I just learned what those are

EDIT: or there is this one:
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2169&gid=260
IDK if its worth it in gains

• Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 264/270
• Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 206/213
• Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .468/.485
• LSA/ICL: 112/108
• Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
• RPM Range: 1000-4500

Here are the pistons:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mahle/644/BBC270280F03/10002/-1

The crank was a scat cast with 4.25" stroke which is good for like 700 hp (not that I'll ever be anywhere near that, unless I go to boost some day) and the rods were eagle I beam 6.385" I believe, its been 4 years.

Right on thanks, that scat crank is on my list if i need a new one.
I really hope I won't though.

 

[Christian Steffen]

Yeah FSC looks way different now, it was harder to find that 454 vortec thread.
The zz502 won't work for me.

However that Lunati cam that you linked is what i'm leaning toward, seems to be about the best i'll be able to do while still passing smog.
I'll call them and ask if they've heard of anyone passing with it, or if they have another recommendation.
That one is the most mild cam i can find on their site.
Thanks for the valve guide advice, I just learned what those are

EDIT: or there is this one:
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2169&gid=260
IDK if its worth it in gains

• Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 264/270
• Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 206/213
• Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .468/.485
• LSA/ICL: 112/108
• Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
• RPM Range: 1000-4500

Right on thanks, that scat crank is on my list if i need a new one.
I really hope I won't though.

I think that cam would suit you pretty well. Anything aftermarket is going to make a noticeable improvement over stock.

And yeah hopefully you don't need to go that route, the stroker is nice but it all starts to add up to lots of money.

 

[cool_as_crap]

I got the heads off last night, and ******, maybe I should upgrade to aluminum AFRs afterall. I think that would add 100lbs to my tow rating after reduced weight
And I found the source of the ticking. Two of my lifters had collapsed, one plunger cap was rotated sideways, and two were completely gone (one of them was sitting in the valley). Too bad, the rollers were still in good shape.

Today I'm going to call lunati and comp to see what they recommend for best cam that makes the most torque with least modification that has the best chance of passing smog.

 

[Christian Steffen]

I got the heads off last night, and ******, maybe I should upgrade to aluminum AFRs afterall. I think that would add 100lbs to my tow rating after reduced weight
And I found the source of the ticking. Two of my lifters had collapsed, one plunger cap was rotated sideways, and two were completely gone (one of them was sitting in the valley). Too bad, the rollers were still in good shape.

Today I'm going to call lunati and comp to see what they recommend for best cam that makes the most torque with least modification that has the best chance of passing smog.

That's ****** something as trivial as a lifter is what caused the need for a rebuild. But oh well it'll be better than it was, its a good excuse for upgrades and you'll know how healthy it is too.

Definitely let us know what they say.

 

[cool_as_crap]

Lunati: Recommended 20010720 first but said 20010346 would work too, small gains over stock but still gains. Seems like they're too far apart between good gain and smogable.

Comp: Recommended 01-412-8, which is probably what i'll end up with. They said it was 50 state legal, and by the looks of the specs, should be able to pass smog. One of the requirements said machining required, but that was only for one of the larger sets of springs they offer.

He recommended the kit, which comes with damn near everything except rockers, but costs $1k.

Found it for $970
https://thmotorsports.com/i-2228457...68L1ilHBZ4OPWDxIg5HI14Thlfp2g3FrL8aApe_8P8HAQ

 

[gstubbz]

Dang dude! Would have been lucky if you bought a 97 CC 6.5 truck and then dropped whatever you want into it and tell the state to kick rocks for smog. I guess I'm lucky living a few hours north of you we only smog once and as long as you keep it forever you're good to go.

Out of curiousity, what are your registration costs?

 

[Christian Steffen]

Lunati: Recommended 20010720 first but said 20010346 would work too, small gains over stock but still gains. Seems like they're too far apart between good gain and smogable.

Comp: Recommended 01-412-8, which is probably what i'll end up with. They said it was 50 state legal, and by the looks of the specs, should be able to pass smog. One of the requirements said machining required, but that was only for one of the larger sets of springs they offer.

He recommended the kit, which comes with damn near everything except rockers, but costs $1k.

Found it for $970
https://thmotorsports.com/i-2228457...68L1ilHBZ4OPWDxIg5HI14Thlfp2g3FrL8aApe_8P8HAQ

The comp option looks like a good choice to me. Should make great torque and if they say it'll pass I'd trust them, though I've never had to try to pass any emission.

You'll have to shop around for each kit component and see how the price stacks up. The only thing I wouldn't use in that kit are those lock nuts, save yourself some headache and get short polylocks.

 

[cool_as_crap]

Dang dude! Would have been lucky if you bought a 97 CC 6.5 truck and then dropped whatever you want into it and tell the state to kick rocks for smog. I guess I'm lucky living a few hours north of you we only smog once and as long as you keep it forever you're good to go.

Out of curiousity, what are your registration costs?

I wanted to go the 6.5 pre 97 route and almost bought a non running 6.5 from Reno, but at the time the house i lived in was tiny without enough room for a project like that.
Maybe someday if I stay in CA I'll do something like that, ideally a 3500hd CC conversion similar to the one near you for sale.
That's awesome your smog is like that, I'd love that.

Reg was somewhere between $250-$300 I believe.

The comp option looks like a good choice to me. Should make great torque and if they say it'll pass I'd trust them, though I've never had to try to pass any emission.

You'll have to shop around for each kit component and see how the price stacks up. The only thing I wouldn't use in that kit are those lock nuts, save yourself some headache and get short polylocks.

I got my fingers crossed on passing. Worse case scenario I have to take it back out in September.
Summit is coming up pretty cheap for each part individually. I plan to stick with a single roller timing set, so I can skip that $200 double roller from Comp.
I'm just learning about polylocks and that seems like the way to go.

I may pick up a set of roller rockers, hopefully this won't be too much lift:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1411-16