2 inch lift

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Swims350

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to turn 2 bolts $360? They are full of it, do it yourself. The stock t-bars will crank higher then that, 1.5 or 2 inch is safer and less strain on the front end that way, the less you crank the better and longer the front end will last and ride better. Them saying it will not lift higher is BS, they want you to waste money buying new keys and then pay them big bucks to change the keys for no reason.

If you don't beleive us, find a jack and an 18mm socket, jack it up until the front wheels are off the ground, find the bolts on them, turn each bolt the same number of times, I'd say turn the shortest bolt all the way in until it bottoms out, counting how many turns, then do the logner the same amount of turns. or just give each about 3-5 turns and then see what you get. Measure from the ground the the upper wheel arch before, let it done after and recheck, that will show you how manty inches. I know mine got an 1-2 inches but mine had already been cranked some before I got it. I could only get 3 turns on my shortest, but it got me level front and rear.
 

jb034

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I just did a 2" block and crank with 33x12.5x15's on 15x10 rims on a 95 Yukon. I still have to put my 2" BL on but without it, it is still doable. I didn't keep track of the amount of lift but id say with the crank i gained between 1.5 and 2 inches of lift in the front. I cranked the bars 4 maybe 5 turns and I still have about a half of an inch of bolt left. I'm not sure if its the 33's or what but my ride seems to be a little softer now so cranking the t bars a bit shouldn't cause any trouble. I'm redoing the ball joints and shocks soon and getting it aligned and after that it should be golden.

I was pretty scared doing the rear block because I was alone and also im 18 with minimal experience but It was a piece of cake. I ended up cutting my u bolts off with a grinder because they were so rusted but besides that its a walk in the park. IMO the block and crank is the easiest and least expensive lift you can possibly do. Just take your time and you will be satisfied. And believe these guys on gmt400 and fsc, I have gotten plenty of advise over the past year and they haven't steered me wrong.

What are you looking to do for tires? in my case a larger tire helped the ride after the crank
 

Swims350

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blocks, those little dinky short shackles aint cheap and I don't see them doing much, not to mention it's probably alot easier to put blocks in then shackles.

Now a shackle flip, but that's like 4 inches of lift, and it's basically cut the old off bolt the new on
 

RHamill

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Original Poster,

I'm not sure what year your OBS is, but mine is a 96' I got it at stock height, after about 6 months of that, I finally decided to crank the Torsion Bars and buy 2" BDS blocks and longer U-Bolts for the rear axle. Don't even bother buying Torsion Keys for an OBS truck, you can get 2" out of your stock keys, and anything after that is overkill for your CVs and Balljoints. See, aftermarket keys are just re-indexed to achieve that higher stance while not having the bolts in that cross member with the keys in it cranked all the way up. Upon cranking on them bolts with aftermarket keys, you will eventually hit bump stops and your truck will ride like a lumber wagon which is NOT fun. I've driven a 78' 3/4 ton Chevy 350 with extra leafs in the front and back, and that rode better than some OBS trucks I've been in with aftermarket keys.

Be sure to soak the bolts for the torsion keys with PB Blaster or something that will lubricate the threads prior to cranking.

Anyways, To crank your keys, first I usually measure the distance from the fender to the ground, write that down, then jack the front end off the ground, you don't HAVE to, but like I always say.. "Work smarter, not harder" - It just makes more sense to relieve all stress from the suspension in the front when turning a bolt that twists a bar which forces your lower control arm down. So after you decide whether or not you want to jack the front end up, you should then find your 19mm Hex socket, DON'T USE A 12 POINT, (Or Do-decagon socket if you will :lol:) Anyways, Don't just start reefing them down and calling it a day, find a good spot to start the wrench and remember where you started it so you can end it there and count it as "one turn", I lined the wrench up along the length of the cross member, so laying under the truck with your feet closest to the rear axle, I lined the wrench up so the handle of it was facing to the right of the bolt head. However you want to do it, just remember to count your turns, personally I did like 5 1/2 turns on each bolt, I should of did 6 1/2 or 7 because the front is a little lower than the back yet.

After you crank the bars, drop the truck down and take it for a little spin with some bumps so you can allow the IFS to flex a bit and see how you like the ride. I cranked mine 1 1/2 inch and it's fine for me, but definitely a noticeable difference in ride quality.
 

RHamill

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For a Block Lift

Don't even bother trying to take the nuts off the U-Bolts if you live anywhere with salted roads in the winter (I didn't check your location). Go buy some lift blocks and ask for the correct U-Bolts that will fit your truck plus the height of your block, I got the 2" BDS Blocks and the U-bolts were about 12.99 a piece. I got the rounded ones and I believe are Grade 6 or 8, probably 8...

Anyways, I broke sockets and wrenches on the damn nuts from the old bolts, so get a torch or cutting wheel on hand,

First, block your front wheels and start jacking up the rear either by the hitch (if you have one) or somewhere other than the rear axle, jack stand the rear of the truck so it wont sway or none of that, jack it so the wheels aren't even off the ground yet,

Start cutting the U-Bolts off and depending on rust, sometimes a little pounding of the leaf springs is necessary to get the Nipple of the Leaf pack out of the perch of the rear axle tube.

Jack one side of the truck a little higher in, slide the block in so the higher part is facing the rear and the lower part is facing front, (that's if you get tapered blocks) Tapered blocks are probably a better bet for lifting, since it prevents axle wrap they say.

NOTE: The axle will swing a little once it is dislocated from the leaf springs, and it can be a real pain in your ass trying to get both sides back in the correct spot to put the new U-Bolts in place.

DON'T remove 1 U-Bolt at a place you know wont have all the necessary tools for the job, then expect to drive the truck somewhere and finish the job, I did that and although the other U-Bolt was tight, it loosened and I lost my leaf pack plate somewhere and still it ceases to exist and I haven't ran on on the passenger side in over a year.

I don't care what people say about torquing bolts, but I always do, because the one time I didn't torque my lug nuts I almost lost a wheel on a main road, well I did loose a stud with a lug nut, and all 5 other lugs were so loose I could take them off with 2 fingers with the truck sitting on the ground.

"Don't be a hero, Torque them bolts *****-o" That's what I always say.
 

danman6677

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Im running 265s now and i like them and i will probably lift it with blocks in the back with a crank but i need to replace my balljoints and my axles before i lift it.
 

dirtyhick42

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DON'T remove 1 U-Bolt at a place you know wont have all the necessary tools for the job, then expect to drive the truck somewhere and finish the job, I did that and although the other U-Bolt was tight, it loosened and I lost my leaf pack plate somewhere and still it ceases to exist and I haven't ran on on the passenger side in over a year.

I would have left that part of the story out, it just kind of makes you look stupid.
 

RHamill

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I would have left that part of the story out, it just kind of makes you look stupid.

I'm a dumb 18 year old, I'll admit any mistakes I make, I got nothing to hide :lol:

Here's some pictures, the truck has a 2" BDS block in the rear and crank in the front in all of these pictures except the one labeled "Before". And I am running 265/75r16's in all the pictures on a 16x8 wheel, but in the "before" picture its on the stock 16x7 wheel with no lift mind you.

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