1995 C1500 Brake Issues

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95C1500

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Front brakes were replaced <10,000 miles ago by a shop. I upgraded to braided stainless lines about a year ago. I checked them maybe 6000 miles ago when I swapped my truck to 6 lug.

If I do bleed the system, I'll take it to a shop who has the right tools for the job.

The only reason I say "if I bleed the system" is because I'm thinking about doing a couple things.
1) I believe I read that 2500 calipers would fit the front. I'll have to go check on that again. When I do this, I'll check and replace the pads if needed.
2) NBS master cylinder. Being that I have a c1500 with c2500 brakes, I'd get the 2500 master cylinder and appropriate fitting.
3) Delete the ABS. I have the adjustable proportioning valve and plan to disc swap the rear some day soon.
4) replace the rear shoes (which I will post pictures of later this evening when I'm at my computer) hopefully under warranty. I think you'll see why I'm a little leary of them
5) have the drums and rotors turned
6) make sure I have the correct wheel cylinders and replace if not. I don't remember which I bought when I rebuilt the brakes but i have it on a recipte somewhere. There's a chance I may have bought the wrong ones.

After I do this, the system should be balanced as you said earlier. Then I'll bleed the brakes and hope they last a while. If there is a flaw in my plan here, please let me know. I missed some very important details the first time around and I DO NOT want to deal with this **** again.
 

michael hurd

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Yes, 8600 GVW 3/4 ton calipers ( and 1 ton as well ) will physically bolt in place of the 1/2 ton calipers.

They also require more fluid volume to move the pad the same amount, meaning the brake pedal will move farther for the same amount of pad travel towards the rotor.


Is this what you are after?


Taking the pedal ratio out of the equation ( hydroboost and vacuum boost have different pedal arm / pivot ratios and M/C bore sizes )

If the master cylinder bore is 1.125" and the piston is moved one inch, you will displace 0.994 cubic inches of fluid.

0.994 cubic inches of fluid will move a 2.9527" half ton caliper piston ( 6.847 sq in ) 0.145"
0.994 cubic inches of fluid will move a 3.1496" 3/4 ton 8600 GVW caliper piston ( 7.79 sq in ) 0.127"
0.994 cubic inches of fluid will move a 3.3858" 1 ton DRW caliper piston ( 9.003 sq in ) 0.110"

Working backwards, if you have a 1.125 inch bore, and you need to move a 3.3858" 1 ton caliper the same amount as the 1/2 ton caliper piston... 145/110=1.31~ 31%more.


I wouldn't want 31% more pedal travel before the pads hit the rotors.


As far as swapping the master cylinder goes...... I wouldn't.

Deleting ABS, sure, as long as you are aware, in the event of a motor vehicle collision, as the owner of the vehicle with a 'modified' braking system, having willfully or 'recklessly' deleted safety equipment, you may be the recipient of a lawsuit, should someone else be injured or killed.

Do what you like, if you want to swap parts, no one will stop you. Just remember there may be consequences.

The proportioning valve ( factory ) may be shuttled one way or the other, giving you so-so brakes as well.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1571946&cc=1303647&jsn=1502

http://www.aa1car.com/library/abs_kelseyhayes.htm

http://www.etoolcart.com/proportioning-valve-depressor-otc7853.aspx
 
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95C1500

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I am all for keeping everything the same. I do not want to delete abs, but it looked like my only option when I could not find a prop valve anywhere (didn't think to check rockauto for some reason). Now that I see they have one, I'll stick to replacing the shoes, turning the drums and rotors and having a reputable shop bleed the brakes and abs module for me.
 

beardeddummy

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I have the scan tool and will do it free if you're close enough to me to offset the cost of a shop. I'm in Bryant Arkansas.
 

95C1500

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Dallas, TX so 4 1/2 hours. It may offset the cost but I simply don't have time between now and the 18th when I need the truck. Thanks for your offer though
 

84cj

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While doing research before I swapped my 14 bolt in last spring, I searched masters and prop valves. Same no matter what axle. 1/2 or 3/4 ton. I work at a repair shop and do all my own work. I have never had better brakes in my 97. I was afraid I may get some rear wheel lock on ice/snow. Non. It stops even better in snow and ice.

As mentioned, you could very well just have a bad master or ABS unit.
 

95C1500

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I just replaced the master. It started leaking. I just had a shop flush the brake system. Hopefully this will solve my issues
 
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My truck does this same thing but its the front i installed a 6" lift and put extended brake lines in bleed system and now when coming to a hard stop it starts grinning bad in front passenger side then feels like it goes to driver side it does worst when going down hill if anyone has had this problem please help
 
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