1994 Chevy C3500 Crew Cab Long Bed Build Thread

[JScott23]

I am here for this, I wish I could blow my K2500 apart and give it a quick restoration; but for now I'll just replace everything I can and wait til I've got the time and money to give it the full teardown it deserves.

Really the only reason i'm able to do a "restoration" to this caliber is because the red truck currently runs and drives as is. Basically allows me to be able to build the entire short bed chassis with new brakes, suspension components, fuel lines, brake lines, new trans, etc (exept the motor/rear axle) right here in the garage while still driving the other one.

Once everything is ready, i'll just need a weekend or two to swap the cab and engine over and hook it all up. Then i can take the red 8 foot bed and finish the white truck. Then i'm done with projects for quite a while lol

If I had a CCSB 4x4 my dream would be answered. But that isn't happening anytime soon. It'll be neat to see a 94 CCSB though! Let us know what the driveshaft length is for my future curiosity lol

I got the crew cab short bed driveshafts with the short bed frame. So i really don't need anything custom for that since i'm keeping the 4L80E. I do think it will be pretty cool seeing a short bed crew cab with the older style interior.

 

[Supercharged111]

I don't like gloss paint on the frame, I much prefer a satin/semi gloss. I think 2 part paint is the way of my future. Anything that air dries is just garbage. We'll see how the Sherwin Williams holds up on my frame. I'm not holding my breath.

 

[JScott23]

I don't like gloss paint on the frame, I much prefer a satin/semi gloss. I think 2 part paint is the way of my future. Anything that air dries is just garbage. We'll see how the Sherwin Williams holds up on my frame. I'm not holding my breath.

This was supposed to be a "low gloss/semi gloss" top coat. It turned out a lot shinier than i would prefer. But whatever.

As far as the paint, i guess to each their own. Budget plays a big part in it. I did the KBS and then 2 layers of top coat. During my research i found some 2 part products, but ultimately i this is something budget friendly that i can easily do in my garage and it's more realistic for me cost wise. since i don't really have a spray booth or a good shop setup to spray a 2 part system. I also didn't see the need to get $$$$ wrapped up in sandblast/chassis paint for something i was going to turn around and daily drive.

As for my white truck, i didn't want to have to pull the cab off the frame, and it wont be seeing snow again so I definitely wasn't overly worried about that one. I just did the KBS and then the one layer of top coat.

 

[Supercharged111]

I wouldn't bother with a booth for frame paint. I'd pick a warm, not windy day and spray it outside. Of course I say this having not done it that way yet.

 

[JScott23]

I wouldn't bother with a booth for frame paint. I'd pick a warm, not windy day and spray it outside. Of course I say this having not done it that way yet.

Yeah i would think the same. Honestly, i looked into some 2 part PPG products for undercoating. It was just a little more than i wanted to get into personally with having it sent off for blasting and what not. I just did the best i could on a realistic daily driver budget and i'm happy with it. It's pretty durable from what i can tell. I did the back side of my bumpers last year and it's holding up pretty well. We'll see how it holds up on this chassis.

Anyways, the way i look at it.... regardless of what route, if you really want things to stay clean you're just best off keeping them parked for the winter. They salt enough here in IL, i don't think it matters what you do. The rust is going to come. I'm amazed at how quickly it ruins things here in IL

 

[deejaaa]

on my frame, i went even more budget friendly than that: i mixed diesel, used motor oil and melted/blended urethane, together and sprayed it using a siphon gun.

 

[Supercharged111]

I remember growing up in MI. Neither of my trucks would still exist if they were MI trucks.

 

[Supercharged111]

Is that similar to the waxy **** the factory used?

on my frame, i went even more budget friendly than that: i mixed diesel, used motor oil and melted/blended urethane, together and sprayed it using a siphon gun.

 

[JScott23]

I remember growing up in MI. Neither of my trucks would still exist if they were MI trucks.

Unfortunately it's just the nature of the Midwest. There is only one real way i know to stop rust. Leave vehicles that are important to you inside and don't drive them in the winter. lol

 

[JScott23]

Had a chance to finish up the second top coat on the frame. Working on getting a roller rear end on the frame so i can roll it on and off a trailer easier when it comes time to do the cab swap.

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The frame is a little glossier than i would prefer, but it really turned out nice, and the paint is a very thick combination of KBS and farm implement paint. As mentioned before, there are probably better ways to go about this, with sandblasting and some of the better products out there, but this will work for what the truck is.

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Even hit the differential with some silver spray paint, just for a little extra touch.

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Then i flipped it around and threw the bed on it to get it out of the way.

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Next up, i'm going to replace all the front end components, and rebuild the 4wd 4L80E i have, bolt it to the 99 NP241 and it should be ready for the cab swap.

Plan on replacing:
- Upper/Lower Bal Joints (w/ new upper control arms)
- Rotors
- Wheel Hubs
- CV Shafts
- Tie Rod Ends, (inner/outer + sleeves)
- Brake Pads
- Shocks (4)
- All brake lines
- Fuel Lines

Essentially the only re-used components will be the fuel sending unit, calipers, steering gearbox, pittman/idler arms, steering stabilizer, and obviously the body/engine/rear end off the C3500 chassis.