1994 Chevy C3500 Crew Cab Long Bed Build Thread

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deadbeat

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POR15 is supposed to be prepped with Marine Clean and then the Metal Prep first, from my experience it does make a huge difference.
 

JScott23

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POR15 is supposed to be prepped with Marine Clean and then the Metal Prep first, from my experience it does make a huge difference.

I guess we'll see. Everyone I've talked to says it's the best stuff out there. I like being able to brush it on, goes on pretty easy. I'll probably do both frames and the underbodies of the cabs this summer.

I've heard hit/miss things, some people say it only works on rust. Others say you can use it just like undercoating.
 

deadbeat

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Check out my build thread and you will see what it does if you just degrease the frame and paint it on 2 coats. I put pics as well, wrote the company and they sent me all the stuff to strip it, prep it, and paint it for free. I bought the engine kit that had it all and 2 1/2 years later it looks exactly like it did the day I painted it. Here is my frame after 1 1/2 years of not driving much without proper prep and no top coat.

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I'm just trying to make sure you don't have to strip it like me. Here is my build.

http://www.gmt400.com/threads/deadbeats-1997-centurion-conversion.27953/

You can see the engine prep and the frame after painting, it looked amazing, now it looks like above. BTW, I will be putting it back on, it is amazing when it is done right. The POR15 Patch is the most amazing seam sealer I have ever used. It is well worth the price to fill small holes and stuff.
 

JScott23

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After applying the POR15 late last night, got home tonight and started off by 3M taping the fender flares and installing them. Also threw the moldings back on. Going for a factory look and i honestly like the moldings on a red truck.

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Also added some rubberized undercoating as a top coat. I know POR15 doesn't need it as long as the painted area is not exposed to UV light, however i figured a little extra insurance wouldn't hurt.

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Also threw the diesel bumper back on. POR15'd the back side of it as i know they're a candidate to rust from the inside out. Took the license plate bracket off. Much better, i know i swap front ends like crazy, but this just has more of a factory look to it. Fits better with the theme i'm trying to run.

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Not going to lie, once this is done it'll be difficult to drive it in the winter. I would love to have a beater 4x4 so i could leave both these crew cabs parked in the winter. However as far as practicality goes, it's a lot more realistic to have one daily, one toy.. rather than two one ton pickup trucks that can't drive in the winter, along with a third truck to license/insure. Even if it's only in the winter.. just another expense. Especially down the road when i actually might need the crew cab for hauling more people than just myself.
 
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JScott23

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Check out my build thread and you will see what it does if you just degrease the frame and paint it on 2 coats. I put pics as well, wrote the company and they sent me all the stuff to strip it, prep it, and paint it for free. I bought the engine kit that had it all and 2 1/2 years later it looks exactly like it did the day I painted it. Here is my frame after 1 1/2 years of not driving much without proper prep and no top coat.

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


I'm just trying to make sure you don't have to strip it like me. Here is my build.

http://www.gmt400.com/threads/deadbeats-1997-centurion-conversion.27953/

You can see the engine prep and the frame after painting, it looked amazing, now it looks like above. BTW, I will be putting it back on, it is amazing when it is done right. The POR15 Patch is the most amazing seam sealer I have ever used. It is well worth the price to fill small holes and stuff.

Wow, okay! I'll make sure to top coat the frames and prep them both frames really well then.
 

JScott23

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So the last month or so I've really been itching to do some truck work. Unfortunately the Cummins is at a standstill for a while. Just needs a transmission and i don't quite have the money yet.. Ever since I started that project, I've been adamant that it will never see snow again, which leaves this red one as the daily driver during the winters.

I've gone back and forth on what to do with it. Originally bought this frame for it. Later considered a flatbed and debated buying a 3rd truck to have 4x4. Ultimately, i simply don't want three trucks. I want my white CCLB cummins as the toy, and a daily driver. Not three engines to maintenance and three trucks to insure.

So while I'm not a huge fan of putting the rust free cab on a rusted 4x4 frame, this red truck is just a crank window truck, with a less than stellar single stage paintjob, and needs an entire new front end, (ball joints, UCA bushings, LCA bushings, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, etc) and has 392k on its C3500 chassis. The 4L80E is also starting to show some signs that its on it's last leg. So it's going to need a complete overhaul soon anyways. I also want that red rust free 8 foot bed for my white truck since prices on beds has gone thru the roof lately.

After talking to some friends and family, I've come to the realization... If i don't swap it to 4x4, i've got what? two identical crew cab long beds with no 4x4. 3 trucks just seems silly, and a flatbed doesn't make a ton of sense considering I'm building the Cummins to work.

So i figured, just clean up the short bed frame, blast it clean, and coat it the best i can to make it last as long as possible. The way i see it, this is an opportunity to rebuild the entire truck (brand new trans, fuel lines, brake lines, brakes, front suspension) and turn it into something that never was.

A 94 Crew Cab Short Bed Mechanical 6.5 Diesel.

Here's what we're starting with. 99 K2500 frame I've had sitting around the house for the past year. I also bought a bed for it last year.

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First off, I took several wire wheeled grinders to the frame and got it down to bare metal the best i could. In terms of rust, outside of one spot, the frame is in better condition than my white trucks frame was and i spent significantly less time on this one than i did the white truck.

Then I prepped the frame (Not pictured) and began to paint it.


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Then I took KBS rust seal (Similar to POR-15) and coated the frame, the front end is a pain to do, i didn't worry too much about IFS components such as the upper control arms as they'll ether be replaced or gone over when i do ball joints, tie rod ends.


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Since KBS/Por15 is UV sensitive, I always top coat it anytime i use it. Even if it's an area that will never see UV rays Just an added layer of protection. On the white truck I used Farm Implement paint as a topcoat, and it turned out great.


This swap likely wont take place until i get the 4x4 trans rebuilt, which will probably occur around the same time i get the cummins trans rebuilt come tax return season. But at least i can do the grunt work and get this chassis ready while I've got more time than money.
 
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BowtieBrody

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I am here for this, I wish I could blow my K2500 apart and give it a quick restoration; but for now I'll just replace everything I can and wait til I've got the time and money to give it the full teardown it deserves.
 

gstubbz

Hi I'm Gavin and I have an OBSession
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If I had a CCSB 4x4 my dream would be answered. But that isn't happening anytime soon. It'll be neat to see a 94 CCSB though! Let us know what the driveshaft length is for my future curiosity lol
 
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