1993 Chevrolet C3500 Crew Cab Restoration/Cummins Build

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BowtieBrody

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I think the 2" body lift makes it look like a stock height K3500, plus I don't think the 2WD frames hang down as low as they do on the 4x4 trucks,
Don't know which I'm more excited about, a Cummins C3500, or a K2500 CCSB, 94 style interior and a mechanical 6.5....
 

JScott23

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I think the 2" body lift makes it look like a stock height K3500, plus I don't think the 2WD frames hang down as low as they do on the 4x4 trucks,
Don't know which I'm more excited about, a Cummins C3500, or a K2500 CCSB, 94 style interior and a mechanical 6.5....

All in good time. I've practically gotta get this Cummins driveable before i can afford to pop the body off that red truck.

My reason for keeping the cummins 2WD, is because its more likely to be used as a tow rig that will get parked during the winter. Whereas the 4x4 will be my daily driver, and winter truck. Good news is, i can save the 2WD trans in the red truck for a backup, keep some of the parts off the 2WD chassis, and steal the rust free 8 foot bed for this truck when i swap the red truck on to the CCSB frame.

I did find out i'll have a few issues, like the steering shafts might be different, and i know the 99 CCSB frame will have a cable shift linkage rather than the steel shaft linkage... will have to find a way to make it work. Also not sure if i can get hydroboost brake lines for the CCSB so might have to do some custom work there. We'll see lol

Here is the difference between a C3500 with 2" body lift, and a stock K3500 with no body lift. I still think my C3500 shows less frame... but its close.

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JScott23

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Finally some more progress. Finished up the last bit of cutting on the core support to fit in the AC condenser. After researching universal condensers, I decided it was just going to be a hassle to find adapter fittings since the factory condenser uses a unique size fitting. Just decided i would use the factory AC condenser. Only issue is the hood latch gets in the way. Autoworld has step by step instructions for this conversion that you can follow if you're worried about venturing off the beaten path, and they recommend you fab a new latch, however i wasn't feeling it.

I decided to notch the core support (since i've already made a ton of modifications to it) and slide the AC condenser down to accommodate for the latch bracket. Now it had to be modified, but it ended up working great. All thats left to do is to make some brackets to hold it in place with some rubber isolators to keep the vibrations off the radiator, intercooler, and condenser, but overall I still have plenty of room in the middle for a massive trans cooler.

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Also replaced the clear corner lenses with some factory lenses. I'm going for a factoryish look, so these fit the theme i'm going for. I will be running some 2k15 Mirrors with the amber signal and chrome trim pieces, so i'm going to see if my paint guy can tint these a slightly darker shade of orange to match those.

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Also plan to replace that sport bowtie with a gold one to tie the whole truck together. Not 100% sure on the side moldings. I'll decide on those for sure after it gets painted. Might go with some 2" wheel spacers if i can find some hub centric ones that won't leave me worrying about them.

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JScott23

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Found an old picture, this is what I plan on running for the front end. Kinda keep a stockish look to it.

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Then repaint, get rid of the badges, replace the white mirrors with 2K15 mirrors (black with chrome caps)
 

JScott23

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Tossing around the idea of using a 6 speed Allison behind the 12 valve..

Possibly one of the best combos imaginable, but it comes at a heavy price tag. Shift linkage, speedo would require some work. Mounting in theory should be the same, by using a modified crossmember from a Duramax. Same cost for the adaptor plate and hardware, but the controller is nearly 3x as expensive as the 4L80E controller from US Shift.

Overall, I'll have to contemplate whether or not its worth the $$$. My only reasoning is the nicer final drive ratio of 0.61 in comparison to the 4L80E's 0.75 ratio. Basically would lower highway RPM"s without changing the rear ring and pinion.

I'm not worried about the 80E holding up whatsoever, just the idea of that 6th gear makes my mind wonder.... :)
 

BowtieBrody

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12 Valve/Allison 6-speed combo all wrapped up in a restored C3500.......
I'd say go for it, but I understand trying to weigh the costs,
 

JScott23

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12 Valve/Allison 6-speed combo all wrapped up in a restored C3500.......
I'd say go for it, but I understand trying to weigh the costs,

Its like the most ideal combination imaginable.. Mechancial Injected Cummins with a 6 speed Allison. All while keeping a 3:73 or 4:10 ring gear for towing, and maintaining practical RPM's at todays interstate speeds which seem to be 75-80mph around here...
 

BowtieBrody

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Its like the most ideal combination imaginable.. Mechancial Injected Cummins with a 6 speed Allison. All while keeping a 3:73 or 4:10 ring gear for towing, and maintaining practical RPM's at todays interstate speeds which seem to be 75-80mph around here...


I dunno, all the times I've gone through IL, it's slow as hell because of road construction....
This thing will be a monster when you're complete with it,
 

JScott23

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I dunno, all the times I've gone through IL, it's slow as hell because of road construction....
This thing will be a monster when you're complete with it,

That's the goal. Even if I keep the 80E, it will still be a nice truck.

I can get an used 6 speed Allison for about $1400. The problem becomes that it's another $2500 to make it work in the GMT400 platform. My 4L80E needs rebuilt ether way, and the adaptor plates are the same ether way, so its worth at least considering.
 

JScott23

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So looks like most 6 speed duramax trucks run 70mph at 1800 rpm with 3:73 rear gears. The 4L80E runs 2100 rpm at 70 mph with 3:73 gears. So the decision to be made is 300 rpm worth like $2000 lol
 
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