88GMCtruck
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Hey now, I'm just doing what I do! I'd love to do a conversion like you are, but I can't justify it at the moment. Plus I have the 88 to deal with.
1993 Chevrolet C3500 Crew Cab Restoration/Cummins Build
- Thread starter JScott23
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cool_as_crap
I'm Awesome
Bitchin build, I can't wait to see it finished!
Do you mind sharing your cost estimate for parts?
Do you mind sharing your cost estimate for parts?
I get it with the 88. This is my version of your 88.
The cummins swap is just such a massive take on.. I don't think a lot of people understand how much of a project it really is.. If I were to do it again, I would've bought ALL of the parts, and had everything rebuilt before I touched the truck. Just because now the truck is stuck in the garage and can't move, and wont move for quite some time.
That said, I'm hoping to have it running by the middle of next year. Then worry about the paint job once it runs and drives. Hopefully it will all be worth it.
Bitchin build, I can't wait to see it finished!
Do you mind sharing your cost estimate for parts?
As far as parts, I'm expecting to spend around $2-2.5k in conversion parts, and then another $1-2k in transmission rebuild/controller. Then you have to buy the engine itself. Thats a lot of money, but I already needed a complete 4L80E rebuild prior to the conversion.
You could probably knock $1000 off that by using an NV4500... save more money if you're able to manufacture your own mounts/brackets and by using the Dodge Alt without AC.
Between transmission selection, mounts, brackets, fan choice, intercooler choice, engine mods, preference to keep AC or not, etc, etc, you can go a ton of different directions and cost/work involved obviously changes based on the choices you make.
I'm going to reseal my motor, add head studs, gov springs/valve springs, add a FASS and will be using the GM Automatic Trans so that's why my conversion will cost a little more. Even despite re-using the dodge radiator/intercooler with a mechanical fan.
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88GMCtruck
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I was in a similar situation with my SAS, but I had more time and a ton of help from my father. I'm envisioning my red truck being apart for quite some time this go round, but i'm hoping to have it in paint by summer.
I'm very lucky to have the time and space where it can sit in there for as long as it needs to. Its more the principle of having it sit and do nothing that bothers me, but in the end those types of things typically are worth the wait.
Like my 93, your 88 is something you're going to hang on to for a LONG time, so its the right truck to dump the time and money into. I know you've bounced around on engine choices for it, did you decide on using the L29 454 from that burb?
88GMCtruck
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It already has a what was a new GM L19 service replacement Gen VI motor, which I put vortec heads with a mercruiser roller cam in, so it's a L29 with a TBI at the moment. It'll become full L29 once i toss the injection setup on it from the burb.
Ahh okay, that's gotta just be a blast to cruise around in. Particularly a regular cab for a fun truck that's just the occasional driver sentimental rig. SAS and a 454.
I thought of making mine 4x4 but with all the extra weight of the cummins I'm just gonna leave it on the factory chassis. I guess i'll enjoy it more as the tow rig and not have to worry about it getting beat up. Makes more sense to have a tow rig as a non daily driver and 4wd on the daily driver. I also hate white, but there is something to be said about leaving it close enough to what it was I guess lol
Ended up caving last night and installed the 2" body lift. After long time thinking about it, I'm just not wanting to deal with clearance issues by pounding up the firewall with a sledge hammer. With the right motor placement and certain motor mounts, it is possible to run a mechanical fan, dodge radiator and intercooler and AC without having to do a body lift. But its tight.
I finally made the decision to body lift after I realized the heavier motor would likely settle the front coils.(although having enough tire clearance during mockup, even after jumping up and down on the front end) Without torsion bars, there is no real easy way to add front end clearance with these 8 lug 2wds, and I don't really trust aftermarket spindles.
Also seeing how tight the downpipe and bellhousing came to the firewall, i figured i would have vibration issues if i didn't. I decided to kill two birds with one stone with this 2" body lift. Unlike a 3" body lift the frame is still relatively hidden and you can't see the cab mounts on the frame. Its not ideal, but its going to make my life a lot easier.
This photo makes it hard to see the frame, but you can tell based on the bed, it didn't really raise the cab up all that tall. It also gave me a chance to hit the cab mounts and bushings with some paint to prevent rusting out. Only broke one bolt on the rear cab mount, it twisted off immediately, had rusted almost all the way out.
(Yes Yes I know, still lots of body work to do on this cab. Unlike my red crew cab which is completely rust free)
Once I cover up all the gaps, roll pan it and what not, you wont even be able to tell, unlike a 3" which you can definitely tell by the exposed frame.
I finally made the decision to body lift after I realized the heavier motor would likely settle the front coils.(although having enough tire clearance during mockup, even after jumping up and down on the front end) Without torsion bars, there is no real easy way to add front end clearance with these 8 lug 2wds, and I don't really trust aftermarket spindles.
Also seeing how tight the downpipe and bellhousing came to the firewall, i figured i would have vibration issues if i didn't. I decided to kill two birds with one stone with this 2" body lift. Unlike a 3" body lift the frame is still relatively hidden and you can't see the cab mounts on the frame. Its not ideal, but its going to make my life a lot easier.
This photo makes it hard to see the frame, but you can tell based on the bed, it didn't really raise the cab up all that tall. It also gave me a chance to hit the cab mounts and bushings with some paint to prevent rusting out. Only broke one bolt on the rear cab mount, it twisted off immediately, had rusted almost all the way out.
(Yes Yes I know, still lots of body work to do on this cab. Unlike my red crew cab which is completely rust free)
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Once I cover up all the gaps, roll pan it and what not, you wont even be able to tell, unlike a 3" which you can definitely tell by the exposed frame.
You must be registered for see images attach
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