You guys gotta realize a simple rebuild with semi decent rockers, cam, valve springs, and bumping the compression up slightly can get you to 350hp. A good wrench crate engine gets those numbers for relatively cheap
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Should be using an aftermarket proportioning valve as mentioned before. The stock valve is for disc from drum rear. The pressure needed for disc front disc rear is different. While this may not solve your problem it is the safest way of adding discs to the rear.
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That's where my next engine is coming from. I'm doing all of the install so he will not get near the truck. It seems most of his problems come from people overseas with not receiving his stuff. Unfortunately you can't rely on what read on the Internet. The people who post are the one with bad...
They were running a name your price sale this weekend and are super swamped. Give him time. I had a response within an hour when I emailed him a month back or so.
Are you referencing Nelson Racing Engines are NRE?
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I was gonna say I'm interested as well. You've answered a couple questions of mine and have been extremely helpful. I'm in the process of plating my frame as well making tubular crossmembers
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The 4L60E in my trailblazer lasted 205k miles of abuse. My aunt (the original owner) put 175k on it without a tranny fluid change. I put 30k miles on it driving it like a 16 yr old would
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Boost and nitrous isn't always the best idea on a stock block! Maybe a billet aluminum block. There was a build thread I was following on the turbo forums, it was a 383 stock block forged rotating assembly, single turbo pushing over 1000hp. Dude couldn't keep rings or compression very long...
Hey Eric thanks for keeping me updated on facebook! Hope all is well with the kiddos. I'm excited to start seeing progress.
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