Transfer case was swapped from 246 to 241. The rear output seal continues to drip fluid. What can be done? I thought rotating the rear axle upwards so that under load the axle won't twist downward and "pull" the driveshaft and transfer case downward too and cause the seal to fail. Fwiw, the seal...
Brand new OBS ACDELCO master cylinder, vacuum pump.
I did a thread on switching to a NBS master cylinder. THIS IS NOT THE OLD OBS ONE I TOOK OFF.
I Bought this as a replacement and never used it, instead swapped in a NBS MC
Front high angle front driveshaft. It was refurbished 1000 miles ago. 3 new U joints, replaced centerlink, rebalanced, repainted (black)
It mounts to a NP246 front output flange.
Replaced because I switched to an NP241 with no slip yoke.
Updates: the weather has been below freezing for 2 days now and still no problems with leaks anywhere. I even got stuck while parked on an incline and had to spin some tires to break thru ice and get to firm ground. No problems.
Update: it's been below freezing in Dallas for the past two days and still no issues with the new brakes/ braking system. Although I park it 3 stories underground in a garage so it's not cold very much.
Yea. From what I'm understanding the broken part is the lead coming out of the head unit. Which is crimped into the plug with all of the other wires.
Scottisk your suggesting to bridge the REMOTE wire into the red/power wire? Splice into it at what point?
We had the multimeter out and used the positive lead on the terminal where the rem wire connects to and the neg lead grounded out. Nothing. I'll try resetting the head unit but it looks like the head unit is bad, which is weird cuz all other functions on it work.