What doors will work?

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redlobster

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I just recently bought a 1996 c1500 extended cab (2 door). The drivers door was sideswiped (the firewall area/hinge mounting points etc were not damaged) but the drivers door was.

What vehicles will the doors work from? I assume reg cab/extended cab, suburbans, tahoes?

Also mine is a non-power, can i use a door that had power windows and locks? (not looking to get them just use the door itself?)

Thanks,
 

someotherguy

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To be quite literal/generous, any door from any body in this generation of trucks will "work" - as well as being power or non-power. However, sticking as close as possible to your year will net best results.

Since you're a 96 - using a door from pre-95 will be slightly tricky because where your inner door handle sits has a depression there that a 94-older will not have. You can make it work, but 95-up is better.

Also, the opening for the exterior handle is slightly larger, literally just by a few mm, this changed somewhere in the mid 90's and seems to vary depending on year/plant/etc.

Some earlier non-power doors will not have the hole for the wiring pass-through boot, requiring you to make one with a hole saw.

Otherwise power vs. non-power is irrelevant; if your inner door panel (the black sheetmetal with the regulator and window motor mounted, door module GM calls it) isn't damaged, window regulator is still good, etc. you just move that panel over to your new door. No problem.

If you get too far away from same year model in general, the fit to the truck may not be the best due to wear in the tooling made to press out the sheetmetal. I've run into this numerous times swapping doors between trucks.

Richard
 

redlobster

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To be quite literal/generous, any door from any body in this generation of trucks will "work" - as well as being power or non-power. However, sticking as close as possible to your year will net best results.

Since you're a 96 - using a door from pre-95 will be slightly tricky because where your inner door handle sits has a depression there that a 94-older will not have. You can make it work, but 95-up is better.

Also, the opening for the exterior handle is slightly larger, literally just by a few mm, this changed somewhere in the mid 90's and seems to vary depending on year/plant/etc.

Some earlier non-power doors will not have the hole for the wiring pass-through boot, requiring you to make one with a hole saw.

Otherwise power vs. non-power is irrelevant; if your inner door panel (the black sheetmetal with the regulator and window motor mounted, door module GM calls it) isn't damaged, window regulator is still good, etc. you just move that panel over to your new door. No problem.

If you get too far away from same year model in general, the fit to the truck may not be the best due to wear in the tooling made to press out the sheetmetal. I've run into this numerous times swapping doors between trucks.

Richard
Exactly the answer i was looking for! I will look for doors 95 +.

Thank you,
 
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