Installing headers 1994 K1500

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1bignordic

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Hi everyone,

Being fairly new to GMT400 I hope I'm in the right area for posting this! I have a 1994 K1500 extended cab, I will get pictures posted as soon as I can figure out how.

My question is...How difficult is it to install shorty headers? This is one project I've never done and would like to know what I'm in for before I start.

I have a cracked exhaust manifold and just ordered the ebay SS shorties, I'm using better gaskets and hardware of course.

Any input is greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
 

Spookers

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I know its a little late but in case someone else happens by this they will have this info: I have a 94 c1500 (k1500 will have a little more room due to frame design and slightly higher body mounts) I bought a set of flowtech shorties from jegs with 1 3/4" primaries and 3" collectors, noticed the included instructions were backwards (said to come from bottom and remove starter on pass. side etc.) What I did was start by removing plugs and wires the pass. side I put on from top, drivers side from bottom(I do have the 4x4 oil cooler adapter and filter installed and had no problem sliding by), removing the starter is just a waste of time, tight points are next to steering shaft and between frame rail and engine on pass. side. at first I ran the graphite gasket with permatex copper spray-a-gasket but there was too much back pressure and blew the tops off ever port in about 400km (the tops were physically gone ) have now gone to mr gasket 4800g mls gaskets w/spray-a-gasket and haven't looked back (I mean with 3"y-pipe to 4" duals has 0 backpressure right? or so the internet told me lol) when I swapped the gaskets I found the very minimum to take off is plug wires and #5&7 spark plugs (rearward driversside) coolant temp sensor forward in drivers side head and intake tube, id still advise pulling all the plugs if this is your first time.
Quick tip use copper anti-seize on sparkplugs and header bolts so they don't rust into your head
 

1bignordic

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Hi, Thanks for the info! I will keep you posted on how the job goes, planning on a week from tomorrow...I need to figure out how to get pictures on here too! Thanks Again!

Greg
 

1bignordic

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Update! Took me a little while to post my results, but I did install the $100 Stainless steel ebay headers. I upgraded the gaskets, installation went fairly well for the first time, headers sound nice, not too loud for me, and I also replaced the spark plugs, cap and rotor, and wires. I have more power and better gas mileage! If i had to do it again, I'd go long tube headers and put in a true dual exhaust.
 

TriGuy

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Hey bud, you got a link for the headers you ordered? And why do you say you'd go long tube if you had to do it again? Thanks.
 

1BigCarrot

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I wouldn't bother with the short tube headers, they are essentially the same thing as the stock manifold, just lighter.

Buy the Hooker 2462 and be done with it. Why do things twice?

Long tubes out perform everything else (talking street motors). The only reason I would not bother with long tubes would be if I was to install a turbo, even then I'd probably have a custom mandrel bent manifold made. It's all about flow and pressure waves. Get those right and you unleash hidden HP, get them wrong and you lose HP. Sometimes as much as 25-40HP either way.
 

GMCTRUCKS

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I bought some mid length headers for my 1993 truck got a good deal on them I need to put them on.
 

JCribb

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For what it's worth, Long Tube headers are for high RPM or racing applications.

Short tube headers are for torque, and since trucks are usually used for towing and other truck stuff, these are a great upgrade over the factory manifolds.

I have run ceramic coated short headers on both of my Z71's, and are worth every dime IMO.
 

df2x4

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For what it's worth, Long Tube headers are for high RPM or racing applications.

Short tube headers are for torque, and since trucks are usually used for towing and other truck stuff, these are a great upgrade over the factory manifolds.

I have run ceramic coated short headers on both of my Z71's, and are worth every dime IMO.

Long tubes typically perform better than shorties in every aspect, including low end torque. Although anything is likely an upgrade over the factory manifolds on these trucks. Not a true A to B comparison for your point here as they use an aftermarket log manifold instead of a shorty header, but I think this test is relevant. I was surprised to see so little difference between all of the options.

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JCribb

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True enough but for simple bolt up and ease of installation, I go for the shortys.

If I had a welder and pipe tools I would definitely go for LTs.
 
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