More smoke after new seals

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Ivan90

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Tracking the stud-mount compressor, I ordered one, will be a good to have, and based on your experience I might be replacing these seals a couple times. I saw other reviews about the same trouble compressing the springs straight, some guys flattened the feet of the tool with a vise, others used a shim. I saw a video someone using a flat screwdriver to pry behind the spring while compressing it to keep it straight. I’ll get some shims this week and use your method, I don’t want to bend and ruin a new tool unless I have to.

Did you remove the spring shims from under the springs? I hadn’t seen anyone do that, not sure its necessary, but thought I’d ask. Did you have to remove the A/C compressor or anything other than the air cleaner? It’s a tight space. Any trouble getting the compressor tool back in there?

Seems Fel-pro owes you, since you ordered correctly and the seals didn’t fit. I ordered intake seals #72527 but went with #72877 for exhaust. The website said either #72877 or #72526 would fit my truck.
 

gric_az

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I tried bending it, but its hard as f***. Spring shims? You mean the flat springs inside? If so, the "dampers" come out with the round springs as one piece. Only things i removed was the air filter intake tube, brake booster tube, dipstick bolt, and un clipped the wire loom behind driver side valve cover. The best feature of the tool is angling the handle in any direction to compress it. I did remove the c clip on the handle part to thread the sleeve on separately, then slide the tool on and put the pin in without the c clip. You'll see why when you do it. I took the guts out of a click type pen and used the body to push the o ring into place before the keepers.
 

Ivan90

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Success. I opened everything up Saturday and finished Monday morning. A bit delayed when I dropped a pushrod down into the block, I ran out to Harbor Freight to get a slender magnet tool. This was easier than I expected. The spring compression tool worked great. I adjusted the foot-angle in my vise.

My valve springs do have shims after all, I may have aftermarket springs.

Well, there were no exhaust seals for me to remove, which explains the smoke on startup. The exhaust valves just had orings and no seals. Is that normal? I installed Felpro umbrella seals, and the intake seals looked worn out so I replaced them too.

I adjusted my rocker arm nuts to zero lash plush half turn while the engine was running. Engine seems to run much better now.

I soaked my seals in zinc like you mentioned.

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Other than a broken spark plug and delay to retrieve the pushrod, no troubles. A great experience.

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Shims don't necessarily mean aftermarket springs. if it had them put them back you use the shims to get the installed height of your springs correct to ensure proper seat pressure.
 

gric_az

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Awesome! Good job! The info i have from gm heritage tells me to adjust 1 full turn from zero lash. Hope there won't be any noise when it's real cold
 
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Depends who you ask some say a quarter turn some a full turn.On some lifters 1 full turn is real close to bottoming out the plunger. a half turn is usually a safe compromise.
 

Ivan90

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Thanks deathtrap. I think I'm good with half turn, anyway if I start to hear clatter its too easy to open it up and tighten. Engine is running really smooth now, better than before.
 

gric_az

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Sorry, i don't know why i was thinking quarter turn when i was reading 1/2 turn. That tools makes it so much easier tho right?! Now the only thing i have to fix is the air injection system. It makes it backfire out the exhaust when i rev it up. Did it before i changed the seals too
 
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