Replacing Rear Brake Lines?

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Ace37

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Hey new member here. Already searched the forum but cant find anything for K1500 burb specifically or what im asking. I have a 99 4x4 Burb and i bought it with the rear lines rusting. Still stops long as i keep fluid in it, its leaking from the main line running to the rear due to being rusted and one spot at the top of the left brake drum where the line bends to go into he drum. Trying to see if i can use AutoZone universal lines, i know i need 3/16 for the axle split and 1/4 for the main. Should i get the ones preflared or just the long reel and flare them myself or have my mechanic do it? I thought of doing steel epoxy as a VERY temporary fix over the rusted parts but decided id rather just keep adding fluid until its change time. Also if there are any guides or anyone in Atlanta who knows someone who can do it cheap thatll be great. Already had the lines inspected by my mechanic in savannah but ill need it done in Atlanta. TIA. Image shows the main line leak, its the very top line (wet spot on frme)
 

deadbeat

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I don't see an image. On my truck I bought a roll of 1/4 inch and a roll of 3/16 of the coppper/nickel so it would never rust. I flared the line and bled it out and haven't had any trouble since. The hardest part is getting the line behind the gas tank, which is where they typically rot, I ran them new when my tank was off. I ran one line from the firewall to the rear block.
 

Ace37

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I don't see an image. On my truck I bought a roll of 1/4 inch and a roll of 3/16 of the coppper/nickel so it would never rust. I flared the line and bled it out and haven't had any trouble since. The hardest part is getting the line behind the gas tank, which is where they typically rot, I ran them new when my tank was off. I ran one line from the firewall to the rear block.
Yeah the image was too large when I tried uploading I'm gonna try again, and thanks for that, was it relatively hard to do? I'm mechanically inclined but never worked on brakes besides the pads and rotors.
 

deadbeat

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PITA to bleed, it was my first time double flaring and I had no trouble.
 

professur

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I second the Nicopp. Costs more initially, but flares and bends easy enough to warrant the expense, and you never, ever have to worry about rusting lines again.
 

Normand

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DON'T MESS AROUND BRAKE COMPONENTS ! If your truck has the main line towards the rear which must be corroded at the support metal bracket along the left rail of the frame, i'm sure the front section that runs a top the front crossmember to the right wheel is just about to let go, I've replace the brake lines on my 99 GMC suburban with a stainless steel pre bent kit, and i'm glad that I've gotten this kit and I assure you that's the best choice, it come with the exact bends and the installation to the original OEM brackets make's it a breeze to install .It come with front section, the rear section , the rear housing section to the brake wheel cylinders, furthermore it includes the lines to the master cylinder,
 

tomb

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DON'T MESS AROUND BRAKE COMPONENTS ! If your truck has the main line towards the rear which must be corroded at the support metal bracket along the left rail of the frame, i'm sure the front section that runs a top the front crossmember to the right wheel is just about to let go, I've replace the brake lines on my 99 GMC suburban with a stainless steel pre bent kit, and i'm glad that I've gotten this kit and I assure you that's the best choice, it come with the exact bends and the installation to the original OEM brackets make's it a breeze to install .It come with front section, the rear section , the rear housing section to the brake wheel cylinders, furthermore it includes the lines to the master cylinder,
I was just looking at the dorman page and they list a number of stainless brake tube kits for C/K1500s but nothing listed for 2500. Does anyone know if these kits will work on a 1998 K2500? If not, Suggestion where to purchase a 2500 kit? (C6P) 8 lug
https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-90...ype=Brake%20Hydraulic%20Line%20Kit&origin=YMM

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