Would you ditch this truck, do engine swap, or swap the head gasket?

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JCribb

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Vortec heads are a dime a dozen, and worst case scenario, there’s probably someone on Craigslist that has rebuilt heads for sale, I say that because there’s always several sets for sale in my area of northeast Oklahoma. A competent machine shop, should be able to help you/ resurface the heads if needed.

Head gasket job is easy compared to other jobs. I have hands on just about every part on my truck, and as one other person said, if you’re unsure of how to do something, YouTube videos help with the overwhelming part of the job. My only suggestion is make sure you have a repair manual, because it’s great for step by step information, and torque specs.
 

redfishsc

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I have to admit, after watching the videos, it's actually more straightforward than the rear gear/carrier swap I did to my other Suburban a couple years ago. I managed to do that successfully.

I'm doing it, so thanks for the encouragement guys. I'll have it on pause until we get this holiday over, and I'll rip the top off it and get it done.
 

redfishsc

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You know one of the reasons I've always been hesitant to do a head gasket job was that I was always afraid I would end up in the world of shanked off exhaust bolts, extractors, nearly impossible tight corners, and so forth.

I had a few minutes tonight so I went outside and was able to break loose all 12 of the exhaust bolts. The hardest part wasn't breaking the bolts loose, it was getting the 14mm socket off of the rusty heads.

I'm assuming I can just replace these with some grade 8 Bolts from hardware store correct?

I also think somebody has at least attempted to do a head gasket job on this truck at some point in time. Not the previous owner, but someone before him. The passenger side heat shield is missing, and the only way to remove it is to remove the exhaust bolts. Also one of the bolts on the driver side have flattened threads. I noticed that it came out stiffer than the others did. I will probably need to try to at least to retap that a little bit to make sure I don't wind up with a leaky exhaust manifold. Of course it's the rear bolt behind piston number 7.
 

skylark

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You know one of the reasons I've always been hesitant to do a head gasket job was that I was always afraid I would end up in the world of shanked off exhaust bolts, extractors, nearly impossible tight corners, and so forth.

I had a few minutes tonight so I went outside and was able to break loose all 12 of the exhaust bolts. The hardest part wasn't breaking the bolts loose, it was getting the 14mm socket off of the rusty heads.

I'm assuming I can just replace these with some grade 8 Bolts from hardware store correct?

I also think somebody has at least attempted to do a head gasket job on this truck at some point in time. Not the previous owner, but someone before him. The passenger side heat shield is missing, and the only way to remove it is to remove the exhaust bolts. Also one of the bolts on the driver side have flattened threads. I noticed that it came out stiffer than the others did. I will probably need to try to at least to retap that a little bit to make sure I don't wind up with a leaky exhaust manifold. Of course it's the rear bolt behind piston number 7.
If you swap the heads side for side then the head with the thread problem in the driver's side back now becomes the passenger side front. Hardware store bolts are fine for the exhaust.
 

1BigCarrot

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Hit the bolts with WD40 or similar based lubricant, makes getting the socket somewhat easier to remove.

I'm assuming I can just replace these with some grade 8 Bolts from hardware store correct?
If you can find stainless studs and bronze nuts. Best replacement there is for the exhaust. Whatever you do, never use stainless nuts on stainless studs. They will gall and then weld themselves together after a little while. Always use a copper based anti-seize compound on the threads. I use the stuff everywhere and on just about everything, especially suspension bushings = no squeaking and easy to replace when the time comes again.


Check out my build thread as I'm currently doing the exact same thing to my motor. I dropped off my heads today at my machine shop to have some work done. Remove old rocker studs, replace with threaded type (I'm upgrading cam), install LS beehive springs, retainers and locks and deck the heads by a couple thou. My HG was leaking between a couple cylinders but it hadn't blown. Head is flat and no cracks = lucky. Head didn't really have a nice finish to it, hence the reason to just skim a couple thou off it.

Good info to read and refer too with the distributor removal/install. It's pretty straight forward. Hardest part for me is working out which scanner will read the cmp offset - any recommendations guys? without spending $800 bucks on efilive or similar. I don't mind spending a couple hundy to check the offset and reset codes etc
 

east302

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Hardest part for me is working out which scanner will read the cmp offset - any recommendations guys? without spending $800 bucks on efilive or similar. I don't mind spending a couple hundy to check the offset and reset codes etc

I used an Android app (CarGaugePro) and an OBD Bluetooth adapter with a cheap RCA android tablet. It was maybe $100 for all three?

Here's a link...

http://www.gmt400.com/threads/car-gauge-pro-can-read-cmp.35275/

Android app DashCommand can also read the offset, but some have reported issues is getting it to work. I didn't have any problems with mine, I have both.



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August76

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Just asking for opinions here. I'm kinda at a hard decision to make.

I just picked for basically free a 1999 Suburban K1500. Right off the bat, I know it needs an alternator and battery (both are shot) and AC compressor. 230K miles. No drips of any fluid.

It smokes steam (white) and gets coolant into the oil. No oil in coolant. Transmission fluid looks uncontaminated, just the usual dark red.

Compression on #4 and 6 are low (120psi and 150), but the rest are all 170-180. Previous owner always suspected a leaky head gasket, and I haven't ruled out a leaky intake gasket as a part of the problem.

Has been getting water in coolant for quite a while, several months at least. Hasn't been driven much during those months, but who knows how long it's been getting water in the oil.

Motor actually runs very smooth. Idles like a sleeping kitten. No knocking noises.

I'm only using this to drive to work (literally 11 miles per day) and the occasional fishing trip.

My mechanical experience does NOT include head gaskets or engine swaps. I've done intake gaskets and rebuilt rear ends (gear and carrier swaps) on my OTHER 1999 Suburban.

I'm considering whether it would be better to rip the engine out an swap in a crate motor (stock, I don't have the cash or know-how for serious mods), or just sell this thing for peanuts.
Get it done. A free 99 burbon is worth a 500 motor swap even.
I'll take one haha
 

mars2878

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my recommendation is this: being your 1st time & sounds like it might be stretched over a little time, take pics & bag/label the hardware.
it'll make it easier to remember.

my 1st head job took me 4.5 months to complete & nothing was sent out. it was a spare vehicle, I was too cheap to send it to a shop & I was working 75-80 a wk @ the time. so I picked @ it when I had time. it was a great learning experience. the bagged/labeled helped me a lot in the end.
 

redfishsc

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I use the same app to read cmp retard.
Good advice. Problem is that there are two cmp retard PIDs on it and they are about 8 to 10 degrees different.

I had to check it when I did the intake on my other Sub, and it turned out to run just fine. Either mine is 4 degrees or 12 degrees. Either way, it's run just fine the past year so I'm not messing with it.


If you swap the heads side for side then the head with the thread problem in the driver's side back now becomes the passenger side front. Hardware store bolts are fine for the exhaust.


I would not have known you could swap the heads but that makes perfect sense lol.
 

east302

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I use the same app to read cmp retard.
Good advice. Problem is that there are two cmp retard PIDs on it and they are about 8 to 10 degrees different.

I had to check it when I did the intake on my other Sub, and it turned out to run just fine. Either mine is 4 degrees or 12 degrees. Either way, it's run just fine the past year so I'm not messing with it.

Wow, yours had a larger spread (one vs two asterisk) than mine did. I asked the company which one was correct and got a vague response. I posted what they said in that post that I linked.

DashCommand also had two options for the CMP retard.



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