Another burned up ICM...

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Chewy1576

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Thank you! It’s been a few years since I’ve even seen a bull, let alone been able to take a shot. All kinds of luck helped with this one. We were just about done processing a spike my friend had shot, when I heard this guy come walking up about 80 yards away. So lucky he didn’t bust because I had to drop everything I was doing, get my rifle, and try to find a lane through the trees to get a shot. We weren’t being quiet the whole time either.

I was reading up on Third Gen about ICM issues and they also mention if a rogue spark grounds down to the distributor instead of going out to the spark plugs, that will fry an ICM also. I may be misremembering, but I think I had the center electrode in the cap broken in half and fall out when my last ICM failed. I’m going to check this cap for damage also when I get a chance to dig into it.


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someotherguy

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Ya know, on Vortec engines the ICM is external with a fat heatsink on it, and they still fail more than one might think they should. As a nice coincidence, they are also known for the caps failing internally and misfiring. Hmmmm...

Richard
 

RedLeader289

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My camaro used to EAT ICM's, it was crazy. I popped one every few months before I figured out the problem.
I replaced my coil once, and my ICM multiple times.

One day the battery dies and will not charge, I took it out and found it had a small crack on bottom-side and it was shorting out internally. This caused spikes in the system which slowly ruined my coil and killed ICM's throughout the process.

New battery, no more issues.

I was never quite sold that it was just the short that killed them though, because I noticed that all the parts store ICMs I purchased (NAPA, Advanced, AutoZone) came with dielectric grease, which is WRONG. ICM's come from the factory with white lithium grease which helps dissipate the heat, dielectric grease does not. I think this also contributed to the mulitple failures because the final ICM that I put on the car was an AC-Delco ICM and it came with white lithium grease.


Long story short - check your grounds, look for any shorts, and use white lithium grease(or another similar heat sink compound).
 

someotherguy

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It's not white lithium grease. It's heat sink compound, which is white, and it's very similar to dielectric grease, which is simply a silicone grease - but it has added materials (ceramic) that help it transfer heat. That's probably why dielectric works OK for some people. I personally would not use plain dielectric, but instead strictly use heat sink compound in this application. I have not ever had problems with modules crapping out on me at all.

Richard
 

RedLeader289

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It's not white lithium grease. It's heat sink compound, which is white, and it's very similar to dielectric grease, which is simply a silicone grease - but it has added materials (ceramic) that help it transfer heat. That's probably why dielectric works OK for some people. I personally would not use plain dielectric, but instead strictly use heat sink compound in this application. I have not ever had problems with modules crapping out on me at all.

Richard

Whoops! You're totally right, I was thinking about something different and just remembered the color (doh!). I actually used some heat sink meant for computer components the last time I put the Z28 together and it works like a charm (I still keep the tube, a flathead screwdriver and two ICMS in the glove box just in case haha).
 

Chewy1576

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I took the distributor cap off tonight and it looks to be intact. I’ll take the ICM out the next chance I get and have it tested.


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Chewy1576

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Got a new AC Delco ICM put in tonight, and it fired right up. I’m 95% sure that the module I installed, a D1943A, is a 369 module. In addition to the module, I modified the Spark Latency table to be the same as a vehicle that a 369 module came stock in. It started a little rough, but drove great. Idle smoothed out after more driving and warming up. I may need to add some spark advance at low RPMs to smooth it out.


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