Performance Suspension Bits

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

jjupiter100

OBS Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 8, 2016
Messages
97
Reaction score
36
Location
DFW
I'm in the process of removing/replacing UCA's/LCA's, inner/outer tie rods, upper/lower ball joints, pitman & idler arms as they're all pretty worn out.
Figure its also a good time to replace shocks and coil springs.
I see that Moog products are what a lot of people like. And that brand would cover pretty much everything except the control arms, springs and shocks from what O'reillys has.

Looking for recommendations on performance type parts that I can use. I don't want to lower my truck, just keep it stock as I still use it for various things.

2wd Sierra extended cab w/ 350.
 

phat69

Newbie
Joined
Jul 20, 2017
Messages
19
Reaction score
3
Location
TX
Just put poly bushings in your arms and anywhere else they offer them.
 

jjupiter100

OBS Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 8, 2016
Messages
97
Reaction score
36
Location
DFW
You must be registered for see images attach
How am I supposed to get my shock and spring out? Did I remove uca & knuckle in the wrong order?
 

someotherguy

I'm Awesome
Joined
Sep 28, 2013
Messages
9,791
Reaction score
14,143
Location
Houston TX
Bro...stop before you hurt yourself. Immediately.

Before you removed the spindle you should have removed the shock. You need to remove the sway bar end links too.

Then using a floor jack, support the lower control arm, loosen (do not remove) one ball joint nut, let pressure off the jack but still in place under the control arm, tap the spindle around the ball joint stud until it pops loose. Jack back enough to put support on it again and do the other ball joint. Remove a ball joint nut and then slowly lower the jack to let pressure off the spring and remove it.

If you let that spring cut loose without slowly lowering it with the jack you are going to at minimum cause damage as it comes flying out, and almost surely injure yourself in the process..

Richard
 

jjupiter100

OBS Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 8, 2016
Messages
97
Reaction score
36
Location
DFW
Thanks for the info. I put the spindle back on and took the shock off first and got everything broken down.
Now to go buy a 24mm socket to loosen those lca nuts.
 

jjupiter100

OBS Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 8, 2016
Messages
97
Reaction score
36
Location
DFW
I've put this list together comparing O'Reilly & Rock Auto.
Looks like Rock Auto is definitely the winner.
I'd much rather not have to grind out the old ball joints just to reuse the factory control arms. It's not that much more money to just get new control arms with ball joints already attached.

With the extra money I could save, I wish I could get some new rims/tires. But that's probably just a pipe dream for now.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

Attachments

  • Truck Front End.pdf
    26.5 KB · Views: 5

retorq

OBS Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 9, 2010
Messages
99
Reaction score
40
You don't grind out the old ball joints, you go down to your local auto parts store that rents tools and get yourself a balljoint press for about $100 deposit. They press out, generally pretty easy with the right tool and an air tank, then you press the new ones in and you're on the way back to reinstalling everything. You don't need new arms unless they are all twisted up and unless you hit something big, fast and hard, they are fine I'm sure. If you don't have air tools you can pull the arms and take them to a machine shop where they can press them out and press in the new ones for you. I went with Mevotech stuff on my Tahoe rebuild, they make some fine parts. I went with them on my Mustang here recently as well. If you get poly bushings make sure you grease them well. You didn't figure in the cost of an alignment, you WILL need one unless you can set toe, caster and camber at home and judging by your disassembly photo you do not posses that skill ... yet. :D
 

someotherguy

I'm Awesome
Joined
Sep 28, 2013
Messages
9,791
Reaction score
14,143
Location
Houston TX
The upper ball joints on a 2WD GMT400 do indeed need the rivets removed to pull the ball joint. Lower is pressed in. I did mine with the arms off the truck and tossed onto a drill press to get most of the body of the rivet drilled out, then I knocked the heads off easily with a chisel like they weren't even attached. Way easier than it would have been with the arms on the truck, but I had them removed anyway since I was doing poly bushing install.

Richard
 

retorq

OBS Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 9, 2010
Messages
99
Reaction score
40
The upper ball joints on a 2WD GMT400 do indeed need the rivets removed to pull the ball joint. Lower is pressed in. I did mine with the arms off the truck and tossed onto a drill press to get most of the body of the rivet drilled out, then I knocked the heads off easily with a chisel like they weren't even attached. Way easier than it would have been with the arms on the truck, but I had them removed anyway since I was doing poly bushing install.

Richard

Correct, totally spaced on the uppers.
 

jjupiter100

OBS Enthusiast
Joined
Aug 8, 2016
Messages
97
Reaction score
36
Location
DFW
Got new coil springs in today. My old ones are 21mm. New ones are measuring 23mm. Product description said they were supposed to be 21.84mm thick.

What is this going to do as far as lowering/lifting? Will my front end just sit up 2mm higher?
You must be registered for see images attach
 
Top