Possible distributor issue

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If you checked your timing with a light it won't matter what the physical orientation of your distributor is.0* on number 1 is 0* on number 1, period. I would check fuel pressure when the condition occurs, and if that's good, suspect weak spark as stated earlier. Maybe try a little extra base timing as well.
 

Keepinitoldskool

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As long as your base timing is on then it does not matter were your #1 is. I rotated my dizzy 90* to keep it away from the heat. My base timing for my 464 had been at 8*, just changed it to 10*. Change your fuel filter.

If you checked your timing with a light it won't matter what the physical orientation of your distributor is.0* on number 1 is 0* on number 1, period. I would check fuel pressure when the condition occurs, and if that's good, suspect weak spark as stated earlier. Maybe try a little extra base timing as well.

That is what i was thinking 0° is 0°. I havent driven since the battery took a **** 2 weeks ago. I need to get a adapter to check my fuel pressure and go ahead and change the fuel filter since it has to come off to check the pressure. May need to get a long enough hose that i can watch the gauge while driving it, since it only does it under a decent load.

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redfishsc

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Just want to second the advice to swap the fuel filter. Looks like you are planning on it anyhow, so hopefully it will help. Had this happen on a 1990 with a 4.3L. Overnight, it started running horribly at any rpm over 2500ish. I had just filled up with gas, apparently the place I got it from had dirty gas. Swapped it out, and magically it ran like a top.
 
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If you checked your timing with a light it won't matter what the physical orientation of your distributor is.0* on number 1 is 0* on number 1, period. I would check fuel pressure when the condition occurs, and if that's good, suspect weak spark as stated earlier. Maybe try a little extra base timing as well.
 

Keepinitoldskool

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I just crack open the line on the back of the tub and turn the ignition on to see if I have fuel pressure
But that doesnt tell you if you have enough psi when you drive to drive it and put a load on it. There is lots of fuel coming out the injectors at idle, but that doesnt mean that the fuel pump is strong enough to supply enough fuel at 30%+ load

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Keepinitoldskool

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Problem is still here and only got worse. Here is what i have tried.

Fuel pressure 10 psi key on engine idling and power braking

Set engine back to tdc on compression stroke on number one and restabbed new distributor set base timing to 0*

Replaced coil

Replaced electronic spark control module

Rebuilt tbi and cleaned out injectors

Replaced corroded ground straps and installed new battery.

Checked for vacuum leaks both visually and with starter fluid, propane, and carb cleaner

No codes are showing except map sensor cause now it tries to stall out all the time.

I am at a complete loss and starting to think my ecu has failed and it is not advancing spark while driving. Still runs smooth and good at idle most of the time.

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if you suspect no timing advance, run it through 3k and watch the damper with a timing light. you will be able to see the timing mark move as the computer advances it. And for peace of mind on the ECU borrow someone elses and hang check it. Have you done a compression check or put a vacuum gauge on it? Might give some insight in this situation.And lastly what ignition module are you running?
 
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