Deadbeats 1997 Centurion Conversion

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98chevy2500SS

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CCSBs are certainly hard to find, indeed! In Iowa they are! People want $7K or more for them, that's just how rare they are. Most of them are clean trucks though too.
 

GarrettGmc

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Found a 97 crew cab 1500 over in reno the other month, tried to get it but it was sold within 1 day, now I'm looking at finding me one. They sell pretty quickly
 

deadbeat

Centurion Crew Cab
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If you decide to get one, check the frame very well under the cab where it was cut and spliced back together. It seems they did not make the welds solid and they tend to try to separate and have holes in that area. We had to build a new frame and change dads K1500 crew cab because of this.
 

deadbeat

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I put the new rear end in mine last night, and a new aluminum one piece drive shaft. I bought it out of a 2011 crew cab 2wd and had it cut down to 78.5 center to center of the u-joints and balanced with new u-joints. Today I put a used Delphi compressor on it, got to thinking it was worth the 15 dollar chance that it would fix my a/c over the 300 dollars for all new parts. After all this the truck is amazing, smooth as I could ever imagine, no let off vibration or any harmonic/vibration at all. And, after vacuuming the a/c down to -30 and charging it, the a/c would come down to 38 degree's. It has been a couple days working. I may put a few pics up tomorrow.
 

deadbeat

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Well, my air was cold. Either the little o-ring on the plug is bad where i poured the oil in, the little cheap o-rings are not sealing, or the compressor just leaks. I'm gonna pull it back off, put a new o-ring on the rear plug, put oem o-rings on it, and gas it back up and see if it is good. It did hold vacuum but I didn't leave it but a few minutes because it didn't leak before, just had a bad compressor.
 

deadbeat

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Seems they make thick and thin washers where the lines go. My used compressor had thick ones, I replaced with thin ones since that is all the auto parts place had. Might be a good place to start :).
 

andy396

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Seems they make thick and thin washers where the lines go. My used compressor had thick ones, I replaced with thin ones since that is all the auto parts place had. Might be a good place to start :).

Might be worth putting some UV dye in it to find any leaks. I bought the Mastercool kit and it has proved invaluable but even a basic black light and some yellow shooting glasses would work or this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003...tector+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=41XVGUNBHTL&ref=plSrch


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

deadbeat

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Thanks, the thing is, the old system had no leaks, just a weak compressor. So if the o-rings don't do the trick, I'm just gonna have to replace the compressor.
 

skylark

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Thanks, the thing is, the old system had no leaks, just a weak compressor. So if the o-rings don't do the trick, I'm just gonna have to replace the compressor.
It is super common for the vortec series compressors to leak as the two halves come together. They even have the nickname "belly leakers".
 

deadbeat

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I have seen that, but don't they have an oil look around them where they leak? This compressor is a really clean Delphi one, no signs of leaks around the bottom where it went together, but that was on a motor with no freon. I'll pull it off and look on the belly and inspect it before putting it back on and charging it. My moms escalade was leaking on the belly like you say, it had dried yellow crud all over it.
 
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