It's hot and this compressor is screwed?

DieselDetroit · Jun 26, 2017

hey guys,

I got a 94 with a 6.5

Just charged the AC system and it started leaking profusely. I could hear it hissing so I grabbed my stethoscope and the refrigerant is coming out between the AC compressor pulley and clutch?

Steady hissing noise. Are these rebuild able or just get a new one? If there was a leak, I would have imagined it would be at a fitting or a hose.

someotherguy · Jun 26, 2017

Somewhat common place for the R4 compressor to leak...it's the seal around the shaft.

Get a new one and don't skimp on the quality. These compressors really do just flat out suck.

You'll need to flush the system out and replace the accumulator too, if you want any warranty on that new compressor.

Wouldn't hurt to replace the orifice tube too, since you'll have the system apart for flushing.

There are kits to swap over to the superior Sanden compressor and they'll probably work on your 6.5 but I'm not 100% sure.

Richard

DieselDetroit · Jun 26, 2017

HOly crap I really don't know my stuff. Accumulator is the one on the firewall?

Thx

TigerEyz3 · Jun 28, 2017

Yes... the accumulator (also called "accumulator/dryer") is on the firewall.
The condenser is in front of the radiator.

jdla140 · Jun 29, 2017

I was in the exact same boat as you, my ac would hiss from the compressor after I turned it off from the shaft seal and the seals around the canister, it only held a charge for about a day. I put a vacuum on the system for about 45 minutes to clean the system out, and bought a can of super seal from wal-mart. That was the beginning of may, it hasn't leaked since.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Auto-AC-.../16888795?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0

If you don't know what you're doing, I would suggest taking it to a shop. A/C work can be extremely dangerous.

Tzfbird · Jun 29, 2017

You can replace the compressor shaft seal($10-20) but there is a special tool required($30-40). If you have not worked on AC then you might be better off having a shop do it, or else plan on investing in a scale and gauge manifold. You do need to clean out the system for a conversion because R12 uses a different oil than R134A and they are not compatible. Besides that change out all system O-rings, filter/dryer, etc. All the hard parts like lines, evaporator and condenser can stay after being flushed. It's not cheap but most of the parts get changed during a compressor replacement anyway.

someotherguy · Jul 1, 2017

Just an FYI his '94 is already R134a. First year for it in GMT400 trucks.

Richard

It's hot and this compressor is screwed?

DieselDetroit

I'm Awesome

someotherguy

Truly Awesome

DieselDetroit

I'm Awesome

TigerEyz3

Newbie

jdla140

I'm Awesome

Tzfbird

Newbie

someotherguy

Truly Awesome

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