89 5.7/auto gray smoke out drivers exhaust calling all TBI experts

chipskittles · May 24, 2017

Those compression numbers are pretty bad. You have to figure 80-90psi is about the minimum compression to even get combustion. Your motor will probably make it through your move as long as you keep up with the fluids. Don't let it get low on coolant and stop driving it if the oil gets milky. It's done at that point

RichLo · May 24, 2017

I normally dont recommend this but if you plan on swapping a new motor after the move and dont mind swapping the radiator also, pour as many snake oil products that you can find into the radiator and oil to try and seal up that crack wherever it is. hopefully its just a head gasket and it'll swell enough to get you through the move.

I've heard used car salesman's of putting 2-3 raw eggs and a few dashes of pepper in the radiator to seal up cracked heads, block or radiator to make a quick sale. Worth a try in your case?

Trucknut25 · May 24, 2017

My uncle swears by k&w block sealer, used it in his peterbuilt. I was thinking about giving it a try. Can't hurt

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Trucknut25 · Jun 15, 2017

Well for those that are curious K&W Block sealer works. I bought a can at autozone for 8.99 and put it in the radiator. Filled the coolant, checked the oil and took her for a ride for about 45 minutes. It ran a little ruff for the first 5 minutes then cleared right out, stopped smoking and power came back. Its been a few weeks and honestly the truck runs like it did when I first bought it again. Im very surprised. So I'm working on my LS swap now. Just swapped over to electric fans, I have a 6.0 in the shed that I'm collecting parts for. Still hunting a 4L80E then it will be time to swap, hopefully after the move and in a garage.

89 5.7/auto gray smoke out drivers exhaust calling all TBI experts

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