What kind of distributor did you buy, and did it come with a cap and rotor?
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96 1500 won't start after repairs
- Thread starter Siggertx
- Start date
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Siggertx
Newbie
DuraLast Gold from autozone. It's new (not refurbished) and came complete with cap and rotor.
tinfoil_hat
I'm Awesome
Once again, you can not set the timing with a light. Read here.
Siggertx
Newbie
I had seen this, went back and followed the rough setting to the letter. Still didn't fire up. I really wish I had a way to test the injection stuff. Hard to know if I'm getting any fuel. Gosh I miss carburetors lol
east302
I'm Awesome
Does it start with starting fluid down the throttle body bore? Pretty sure that the MAF needs to be connected to start.
Do you have spark at all cylinders?
Using a scanner, see if the TPS is reading anything but 0% with your foot off of the gas. Also see if the ECT sensor is reading an oddball coolant temp of negative 20 degrees or something like that.
You can download DashCommand or CarGauge Pro for android and use a Bluetooth OBD connector for that. It will also read the camshaft position sensor offset (CMP retard) in the distributor. It needs to be at 0 degrees, +/- 2 degrees at around 1100 rpm, though I've had mine start at -14 degrees.
You can rent a fuel pressure gauge to verify pressures.
Not sure if the 96 had it, but is your Security (Passlock) light on the dash staying on or blinking?
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Do you have spark at all cylinders?
Using a scanner, see if the TPS is reading anything but 0% with your foot off of the gas. Also see if the ECT sensor is reading an oddball coolant temp of negative 20 degrees or something like that.
You can download DashCommand or CarGauge Pro for android and use a Bluetooth OBD connector for that. It will also read the camshaft position sensor offset (CMP retard) in the distributor. It needs to be at 0 degrees, +/- 2 degrees at around 1100 rpm, though I've had mine start at -14 degrees.
You can rent a fuel pressure gauge to verify pressures.
Not sure if the 96 had it, but is your Security (Passlock) light on the dash staying on or blinking?
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Siggertx
Newbie
Spark present on all 8. It tries to start with a little fuel on the TB but stumbles and backfires. My scan tool is really basic, I ordered a Bluetooth OBD2 scanner but it won't be here until Saturday. No pass lock on this model.
east302
I'm Awesome
Since you have spark and it tries to start with starting fluid, I would get a gauge on it to see if the fuel pressure is dropping within a few minutes after cranking. Could be a leaking injector or regulator.
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Siggertx
Newbie
Have a few updates for today. First, I pulled the ICM and had it tested at autozone. Failed 2 out of 3 times so I replaced it. Then I thought I might be off on the distributor so I set it back a tooth. It almost started then wouldn't fire again, hit it with starting fluid and it fired up for a second then died. I pulled the wire from the coil and cranked it while holding it over a ground and it was getting a good consistent spark. Tried the same thing with the #1 spark plug and it was really intermittent. Bad distributor? Autozone was out of stock so I have to wait until tomorrow but they will swap it out under warranty. That's as far as I've made it so far, but I'll call it progress.
lamogo33
OBS Enthusiast
Could be bad wires and or plugs. How many miles on them?
tinfoil_hat
I'm Awesome
Personally, I am no fan of ether and I will not use it in my engines. If your motor can start, it will start. It doesn't need any boost. It just needs the right combination of fuel, air, and spark.
You have to have the MAF plugged in for the engine to run. Don't know if you have tried this or not.
I know I said this already but try to stick with Delco/Delphi parts for ignition, sensors, fuel. These engines seem to be picky about that for some reason. I have also read that bad coolant temp sensors can mess with the computer. I know that's not really helpful but I'm just throwing it out there.
I also remember you saying you checked two grounds but I think there are two more. I think you got the one by the trans dipstick and the one on the tstat housing. Then there's one from the neg cable at the battery to the body and I think one motor to frame near there as well.
You have to have the MAF plugged in for the engine to run. Don't know if you have tried this or not.
I know I said this already but try to stick with Delco/Delphi parts for ignition, sensors, fuel. These engines seem to be picky about that for some reason. I have also read that bad coolant temp sensors can mess with the computer. I know that's not really helpful but I'm just throwing it out there.
I also remember you saying you checked two grounds but I think there are two more. I think you got the one by the trans dipstick and the one on the tstat housing. Then there's one from the neg cable at the battery to the body and I think one motor to frame near there as well.
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