lamogo33
OBS Enthusiast
I appreciate all the help this community has provided me already and I'd like to give back a bit. So I will show you how to make a tool used for priming a dry oil system in most classic Chevy engines (i.e. SBC, BBC, L6s). This has been around for quite some time and that is how I know of it, but perhaps there are some who can learn a new trick. I picked this up from stock car racing.
The tool we will create is something like this... http://bit.ly/2mVijGe using an old distributor. Feel free to chime in if I've made a mitsake! I'll also attach a PDF version to download and save, or just in case these hosted photos get deleted.
RATIONALE: Studies have shown that an engine's life is directly linked to the number of cold starts it incurs. What is worse is dry starts. Dry starts can happen when an engine has been reassembled or if it has sat for a lengthy period of time. This author recently acquired an engine that has sat on the engine stand for "a few years." The oil system will need to be primed prior to turning the key, thus extending the life of the engine. As an avid DIYer this author finds satisfaction in doing things on a shoe-string budget. Furthermore, a mark of a true master of any trade is for the person to build their own tools.
MATERIALS NEEDED:
OVERVIEW: In this article we will be taking a used GM distributor from a 92 SBC and stripping away its parts, leaving a centering shaft and an oil pump shaft that can be operated with a cordless drill. Different style distributors will have obvious variations on the disassembly but the essentials will remain the same.
DISASSEMBLY: Start by removing the distributor gear. This will ensure the pump shaft can spin freely once inside the engine. The gear is held in place by a pin. If you attempt to drill this pin out you will quickly learn it is a hardened one, and it will not drill. (Picture shown for completeness.)
The proper way of removing this pin is to clamp it in a bench vice and using a drift or punch, knock it through with a hammer. One smack is usually sufficient enough to free it up and pull it out. If you do not have a vice you may need to improvise.
Once the pin is removed the gear will slide right off the pump shaft.
At this point the tool is usable, as long as you remove the rotor on the other end to chuck up into your drill. However, if you wish to clean your tool up more proceed by removing some of the electronics. (Much of these parts' names I'm unfamiliar with and I am too lazy to look them up. Forgive me for my slothfulness.)
First start by removing the HEI thingy. It is held in place by two 7/32 head bolts. Be aware of the contact putty on the underside. Yuck!
At this point pull the rod out and remove the magnet from around the shaft, leaving just the rod. The easiest way to do this is to knock the rod through the shaft, sliding the magnet off the shaft. (My magnet actually broke.)
Next begin prying on the other things until they come off. Leaving you with a pile of bits to toss in your neighbor's junk pile.
And this is all that you should be left with.
NOTE: On this particular style of distributor, the aluminum flat plate can be removed leaving a much sleeker tool. However, the author decided to leave it on for two reasons. Firstly, it gives something to grab onto when reaching at the back of the engine. Also it will be annotated on the plate which direction to spin the shaft so the user is not required to remember it every time. (clockwise)
USEAGE: Insert the old distributor into the hole, and spin the oil pump shaft until it seats into the oil pump.
Here it is shown fully seated.
Next, attach the drill, and tighten the chuck. While you have someone watch the oil pressure gauge, spin the drill until the gauge shows good oil pressure. It may take a few moments before it reads on the gauge. Once the oil system has been primed, pull the pieces out and drop in your regular distributor.
TECH TIP: You can use the rod to spin the pump to help line up your distributor easier.
NOTE: If it does not read on the gauge after a few moments: Ensure there is power to your gauge for it to function properly. Also, remember, you may have to fill a new oil filter and oil cooler before it reaches the sending unit. Be patient.
FINAL THOUGHTS:
1. If you use a different era distributor, like an HEI, you may find that the shaft is too short for this purpose, so you can weld an old bolt on like a stud.
2. Soak the two pieces in parts cleaner to make it look new!
3. The pump shaft will want to slide out of the outer shaft when not in use. You may be tempted to find a way to keep them together. I'd prefer grease because anything else may fall into the engine and cause damage. (i.e. old pin, bolt, wire, etc...)
4. This distributor's pump shaft requires a drill with a ½ chuck. If you don't have one, you can turn down the shaft on a lathe or weld a stud/bolt to use.
The tool we will create is something like this... http://bit.ly/2mVijGe using an old distributor. Feel free to chime in if I've made a mitsake! I'll also attach a PDF version to download and save, or just in case these hosted photos get deleted.
RATIONALE: Studies have shown that an engine's life is directly linked to the number of cold starts it incurs. What is worse is dry starts. Dry starts can happen when an engine has been reassembled or if it has sat for a lengthy period of time. This author recently acquired an engine that has sat on the engine stand for "a few years." The oil system will need to be primed prior to turning the key, thus extending the life of the engine. As an avid DIYer this author finds satisfaction in doing things on a shoe-string budget. Furthermore, a mark of a true master of any trade is for the person to build their own tools.
MATERIALS NEEDED:
- Hammer
- Punch
- Screw driver or small pry bar
- Old GM distributor
- 7/32 socket and ratchet
OVERVIEW: In this article we will be taking a used GM distributor from a 92 SBC and stripping away its parts, leaving a centering shaft and an oil pump shaft that can be operated with a cordless drill. Different style distributors will have obvious variations on the disassembly but the essentials will remain the same.
DISASSEMBLY: Start by removing the distributor gear. This will ensure the pump shaft can spin freely once inside the engine. The gear is held in place by a pin. If you attempt to drill this pin out you will quickly learn it is a hardened one, and it will not drill. (Picture shown for completeness.)
You must be registered for see images attach
The proper way of removing this pin is to clamp it in a bench vice and using a drift or punch, knock it through with a hammer. One smack is usually sufficient enough to free it up and pull it out. If you do not have a vice you may need to improvise.
You must be registered for see images attach
Once the pin is removed the gear will slide right off the pump shaft.
You must be registered for see images attach
At this point the tool is usable, as long as you remove the rotor on the other end to chuck up into your drill. However, if you wish to clean your tool up more proceed by removing some of the electronics. (Much of these parts' names I'm unfamiliar with and I am too lazy to look them up. Forgive me for my slothfulness.)
First start by removing the HEI thingy. It is held in place by two 7/32 head bolts. Be aware of the contact putty on the underside. Yuck!
You must be registered for see images attach
At this point pull the rod out and remove the magnet from around the shaft, leaving just the rod. The easiest way to do this is to knock the rod through the shaft, sliding the magnet off the shaft. (My magnet actually broke.)
You must be registered for see images attach
Next begin prying on the other things until they come off. Leaving you with a pile of bits to toss in your neighbor's junk pile.
You must be registered for see images attach
And this is all that you should be left with.
You must be registered for see images attach
NOTE: On this particular style of distributor, the aluminum flat plate can be removed leaving a much sleeker tool. However, the author decided to leave it on for two reasons. Firstly, it gives something to grab onto when reaching at the back of the engine. Also it will be annotated on the plate which direction to spin the shaft so the user is not required to remember it every time. (clockwise)
USEAGE: Insert the old distributor into the hole, and spin the oil pump shaft until it seats into the oil pump.
You must be registered for see images attach
Here it is shown fully seated.
You must be registered for see images attach
Next, attach the drill, and tighten the chuck. While you have someone watch the oil pressure gauge, spin the drill until the gauge shows good oil pressure. It may take a few moments before it reads on the gauge. Once the oil system has been primed, pull the pieces out and drop in your regular distributor.
TECH TIP: You can use the rod to spin the pump to help line up your distributor easier.
You must be registered for see images attach
NOTE: If it does not read on the gauge after a few moments: Ensure there is power to your gauge for it to function properly. Also, remember, you may have to fill a new oil filter and oil cooler before it reaches the sending unit. Be patient.
FINAL THOUGHTS:
1. If you use a different era distributor, like an HEI, you may find that the shaft is too short for this purpose, so you can weld an old bolt on like a stud.
2. Soak the two pieces in parts cleaner to make it look new!
3. The pump shaft will want to slide out of the outer shaft when not in use. You may be tempted to find a way to keep them together. I'd prefer grease because anything else may fall into the engine and cause damage. (i.e. old pin, bolt, wire, etc...)
4. This distributor's pump shaft requires a drill with a ½ chuck. If you don't have one, you can turn down the shaft on a lathe or weld a stud/bolt to use.
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