5.3 Build for 95 1/2 ton swap

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Blackwater

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I may be able to help you on this. I have yeas researching everything before I started. Im in the process of doing a swap as we type. First of all, what are your goals for this truck? HP goal? torque goal? From what I am reading you want a parts getter and daily driver. Using a 5.3L is a good start. it will make a good daily driver. In my swap I just put my junkyard engine on the engine stand but currently having to wait till I get the lawn mower running since mowing season is coming up. I'm looking at 550 to 600 hp with 500 to 550 lb-ft of toque. When looking at these numbers it is a compromise between hp and torque or top end vs bottom end power. If your racing you want top end vs towing and hauling where you need bottom end. What I mean by compromise is I want something to tow with and track on occasion or red light to red light ***** baggery. For my build I picked the LQ4. Yes, some say "why don't you use the LQ9 HO?" First of all what is the difference? The only difference between the two is the compression ratio by using flat top pistons in the LQ9 vs the dished pistons in the LQ4. Now this brings a whole another question to concider when picking a cam heads pistons. Are you going forced Induction? I plan on going Naturally Aspirated. Therefore, higher compression is the way to go. Which brings up another question, what type of fuel do you plan on using? Pump gas? premium? race gas? Im looking for pump gas which puts my compression between 9.8 to 11.3 to one. If your planning to do FI then you need 8.5 to 10.1. If you want towing grunt then you can think of stroking the motor. 5.3 (3.780 in bore), 6.0 ( 4 in bore) and 6.2 (4.065 in bore) have the same stroke (3.6 inch) but different bore size. the 7.0 (4.1250 in bore) has a 4 inch crank. now the 4.8L and the 5.3L share the same bore(3.780 in) but different stroke (3.3 in vs 3.6 in respectively). Now that brings another question do I want to stroke my power plant? Well when it come to power and torque the golden rule is there is no replacement for displacement. When you stroke a engine you increase the displacement. For example, Taking my LQ4 and you can stoke it to 370, 402, 408, 416 (iron block only), 427 (iron block only). Note: the smaller the stroke the more reliable and higher reves you can go and the larger the stroke the less reliable, less revs and gobs of power and torque. Which brings me to my build. I choose to put in a 4 in crank which make it a 402 ci or 6.6L. that makes it a square engine with the 4 in bore and 4 in crank. Any bigger crank and it will be over square. unless you bore it 30 over to 4.030 with a 4 in crank will be 408 ci.

Hope this gets you to thinking of what you want. I believe you can achieve your goal cheaper by forced Induction (super charger) with a mild cam and bump up to 42 lbs-hr injectors.. Power adders are great depending on the setup. You can get big power or fuel econ or a little bit of both and have that thrust your @$$ to your seat, go. You need to think of these things. I will help you every step of the way including sharing my shopping list which I have toughly researched. I also have several books on the ls swap and modifications. also on the computer portions on it. step to picking the right computer and setup.

My truck is a 1993 GMC C1500 with a 2004 NV4500 MW3 w/ gearvendos under/overdrive auxiliary transmission (that's 10 gears!), 1992 K2500 14 bolt 9.5 w/ 3.73:1 with Detroit locker and G2 diff cover. signal mirrors 1993 5.7L stock engine (LQ4 is on engine stand ready for tear down and build up).

Give me a shout if I can be of help.
 

Blackwater

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well, duration only tells a part of the story.

i hope you "build" this engine on here so we all can learn....

in the future i'm considering a gmt400 platform 2wd with a next gen 4.8 and 5 speed for a fair weather, more fuel efficient vehicle than my 4x4....or a Vortec 4.3...i'll be moving upstate NY again and 20K a year is not hard to do, longer snow seasons as well... right now i ride around 12K a year and put about 3K on a cage....i'm also in NYC.

looking forward to your progress.....and knowledgeable insight from "those that went before".

I suggest to go with the 5.3L, You will get better mileage with it. I have the 5.3 and my mother-in-law had the 4.8 and I got 2 mpg better. that and I was 2wd and she is 4wd but that's is only 1 mpg difference according to GM.
 

shovelbill

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I may be able to help you on this. I have yeas researching everything before I started. Im in the process of doing a swap as we type. First of all, what are your goals for this truck? HP goal? torque goal? From what I am reading you want a parts getter and daily driver. Using a 5.3L is a good start. it will make a good daily driver. In my swap I just put my junkyard engine on the engine stand but currently having to wait till I get the lawn mower running since mowing season is coming up. I'm looking at 550 to 600 hp with 500 to 550 lb-ft of toque. When looking at these numbers it is a compromise between hp and torque or top end vs bottom end power. If your racing you want top end vs towing and hauling where you need bottom end. What I mean by compromise is I want something to tow with and track on occasion or red light to red light ***** baggery. For my build I picked the LQ4. Yes, some say "why don't you use the LQ9 HO?" First of all what is the difference? The only difference between the two is the compression ratio by using flat top pistons in the LQ9 vs the dished pistons in the LQ4. Now this brings a whole another question to concider when picking a cam heads pistons. Are you going forced Induction? I plan on going Naturally Aspirated. Therefore, higher compression is the way to go. Which brings up another question, what type of fuel do you plan on using? Pump gas? premium? race gas? Im looking for pump gas which puts my compression between 9.8 to 11.3 to one. If your planning to do FI then you need 8.5 to 10.1. If you want towing grunt then you can think of stroking the motor. 5.3 (3.780 in bore), 6.0 ( 4 in bore) and 6.2 (4.065 in bore) have the same stroke (3.6 inch) but different bore size. the 7.0 (4.1250 in bore) has a 4 inch crank. now the 4.8L and the 5.3L share the same bore(3.780 in) but different stroke (3.3 in vs 3.6 in respectively). Now that brings another question do I want to stroke my power plant? Well when it come to power and torque the golden rule is there is no replacement for displacement. When you stroke a engine you increase the displacement. For example, Taking my LQ4 and you can stoke it to 370, 402, 408, 416 (iron block only), 427 (iron block only). Note: the smaller the stroke the more reliable and higher reves you can go and the larger the stroke the less reliable, less revs and gobs of power and torque. Which brings me to my build. I choose to put in a 4 in crank which make it a 402 ci or 6.6L. that makes it a square engine with the 4 in bore and 4 in crank. Any bigger crank and it will be over square. unless you bore it 30 over to 4.030 with a 4 in crank will be 408 ci.

Hope this gets you to thinking of what you want. I believe you can achieve your goal cheaper by forced Induction (super charger) with a mild cam and bump up to 42 lbs-hr injectors.. Power adders are great depending on the setup. You can get big power or fuel econ or a little bit of both and have that thrust your @$$ to your seat, go. You need to think of these things. I will help you every step of the way including sharing my shopping list which I have toughly researched. I also have several books on the ls swap and modifications. also on the computer portions on it. step to picking the right computer and setup.

My truck is a 1993 GMC C1500 with a 2004 NV4500 MW3 w/ gearvendos under/overdrive auxiliary transmission (that's 10 gears!), 1992 K2500 14 bolt 9.5 w/ 3.73:1 with Detroit locker and G2 diff cover. signal mirrors 1993 5.7L stock engine (LQ4 is on engine stand ready for tear down and build up).

Give me a shout if I can be of help.

now that there'a an offer i would welcome iffin i was the OP!
 

shovelbill

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I suggest to go with the 5.3L, You will get better mileage with it. I have the 5.3 and my mother-in-law had the 4.8 and I got 2 mpg better. that and I was 2wd and she is 4wd but that's is only 1 mpg difference according to GM.

that i do understand....unless it's dead flat super-slab, your foots in it more to move it, LOL.....

when i move, know my circumstances and find my ride i'll be better equipped to make intelligent choices.....thanks
 

Blackwater

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that i do understand....unless it's dead flat super-slab, your foots in it more to move it, LOL.....

when i move, know my circumstances and find my ride i'll be better equipped to make intelligent choices.....thanks


I am thinking about getting the 4.8L pistons for my 5.3L to make it the H.O. version. Mamma don't need too much more the a few more ponies. She gets more tickets then I do. Mama 4 tickets - daddy 3 waning's 0 tickets.
 

shovelbill

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I am thinking about getting the 4.8L pistons for my 5.3L to make it the H.O. version. Mamma don't need too much more the a few more ponies. She gets more tickets then I do. Mama 4 tickets - daddy 3 waning's 0 tickets.

my GM383 is potent enough as it came out of the box......i don't need more ponies eitheer, but i'm looking forward to a nice proper dyno tune. GM claims 323hp @ 4,200 and 444tq @ 3K on the stock intake and exhaust, that's at the crank.....i have the Voltant air box, JBA ceramic shorties, hi-flow (non-CA)Magnaflow catcon setup and the JBA single side cat back.....it should do some better with tuning, no?

4.8 v. 5.3.....i didn't know the 5.3 was a stroker, cool deal...i'm learning!
....just like the 80" shovelhead was a factory bored and stroked 74".
 
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Blackwater

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my GM383 is potent enough as it came out of the box......i don't need more ponies eitheer, but i'm looking forward to a nice proper dyno tune. GM claims 323hp @ 4,200 and 444tq @ 3K on the stock intake and exhaust, that's at the crank.....i have the Voltant air box, JBA ceramic shorties, hi-flow (non-CA)Magnaflow catcon setup and the JBA single side cat back.....it should do some better with tuning, no?

4.8 v. 5.3.....i didn't know the 5.3 was a stroker, cool deal...i'm learning!
....just like the 80" shovelhead was a factory bored and stroked 74".

They have the same bore but the 4.8 has a 3.3 stroke and the 5.0 has a 3.6 stroke 5.3, 6.0 and 6.2 share the same stroke. the 7.0 is a different animal with a 4 in stroke. you can put a 4 in crank into a 4.8, 5.3 (4.8 and 5.3 will be the same displacement with the 4 in crank), 6.0 will then go from 364 ci to 402, 6.2 376 then will be a 416.
 

shovelbill

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They have the same bore but the 4.8 has a 3.3 stroke and the 5.0 has a 3.6 stroke 5.3, 6.0 and 6.2 share the same stroke. the 7.0 is a different animal with a 4 in stroke. you can put a 4 in crank into a 4.8, 5.3 (4.8 and 5.3 will be the same displacement with the 4 in crank), 6.0 will then go from 364 ci to 402, 6.2 376 then will be a 416.

cool to hear the figures, i like this stuff, thanks......i'm a Harley engine guy...and a stroker fan...how's ya like a 45* v-twin with a 5" arm? LOL.
 

DRAGGIN95

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I will add my 2 cents to this as well, I have a 408 LS in my 95, I am running the TSP 228R 588 lift intake and exhaust with 110 LSA to bring in torque at lower rpm since this is a truck, I have a built 4L80E with Transgo HD2 shift kit and 2400 stall converter. Makes a ton of power and lot's down low in the rpm range. I really dislike a big stall converter unless you are on the dragstrip, and whatever you do please do not pick a cam based solely on sound, I know a lot of people that end up with trucks that sound good and are slow pigs because the cam they picked makes most of its power up high in the rpm range.
 
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