what's wrong with my door locks?

AbramF_496 · Jan 6, 2015

Just gonna have to read the before posts and then go from there

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

allfritz123 · Oct 20, 2016

I have a 95 Chev Suburban with power door locks. The door lock switch on the drivers side will lock all the 4 doors but it will only open up its own door. I have been researching if the VBA-2002 relay Part #12065122 located above the brake pedal would be the problem? The relay clicks but there is no attempt made to activate any of the other doors or the rear barn wagon door. Never fails to lock but never works to open any other doors. Also that relay clicks whether I hit the unlock once or twice. My keyfob instructions on back side say, push it once to unlock the driver door, twice to unlock the rest. So I am not sure if it is the relay problem, pushing the drivers door once it activates the points in the relay. I have to assume that the coil in the relay maybe activitating but it is not closing the points on the other side of the relay to pass current. Anyone have thoughts or had a similar problem?

michael hurd · Oct 20, 2016

allfritz123 said:
I have a 95 Chev Suburban with power door locks. The door lock switch on the drivers side will lock all the 4 doors but it will only open up its own door. I have been researching if the VBA-2002 relay Part #12065122 located above the brake pedal would be the problem? The relay clicks but there is no attempt made to activate any of the other doors or the rear barn wagon door. Never fails to lock but never works to open any other doors. Also that relay clicks whether I hit the unlock once or twice. My keyfob instructions on back side say, push it once to unlock the driver door, twice to unlock the rest. So I am not sure if it is the relay problem, pushing the drivers door once it activates the points in the relay. I have to assume that the coil in the relay maybe activitating but it is not closing the points on the other side of the relay to pass current. Anyone have thoughts or had a similar problem?

What I have seen in many older vehicles with high mileage - broken wire(s) in the hinge area of the drivers door, from constant bending cycles over the lifespan of the vehicle.

While I can't say that is your issue for sure, you could try to repeat the test with the driver's door open at several different angles, before pulling back the rubber tubing to visually check the wires.

Even if the outer jacket is fine, the copper conductors could be broken inside the jacket of the wire.

michael hurd · Oct 20, 2016

Also, considering the age of the vehicle, you may require a good cleaning and lubrication of all of the door lock / latch system parts, to ensure that they will move effectively.

The factory white grease over time becomes contaminated with dust / grit, and the oils separate from the binder, turning into a waxy paste of sorts with grit.

Spraying part of the latch with a strong solvent cleaner like a good brake clean ( non-chlorinated ones I have tried do not work as good as the older chlorinated brake cleaners, but YMMV ) and following up with a decent lubricant works OK. ( Fluid Film works well here, as does Rust Check spray )

For absolute best results, the latch mechanisms can be removed from the doors, soaked, brushed clean, air blow to remove any remaining particles, then re-install and lubricate. It is a total pain in the arse to do, but is the most effective.

allfritz123 · Oct 20, 2016

michael hurd said:
Also, considering the age of the vehicle, you may require a good cleaning and lubrication of all of the door lock / latch system parts, to ensure that they will move effectively.

The factory white grease over time becomes contaminated with dust / grit, and the oils separate from the binder, turning into a waxy paste of sorts with grit.

Spraying part of the latch with a strong solvent cleaner like a good brake clean ( non-chlorinated ones I have tried do not work as good as the older chlorinated brake cleaners, but YMMV ) and following up with a decent lubricant works OK. ( Fluid Film works well here, as does Rust Check spray )

For absolute best results, the latch mechanisms can be removed from the doors, soaked, brushed clean, air blow to remove any remaining particles, then re-install and lubricate. It is a total pain in the arse to do, but is the most effective.

Thanks for the fast response and thank you for the wiring diagram from the 1995 Tahoe! That was excellent. We tested the relay and it has a good response on the door lock side, but couldn't get the unlock side to make contact. With the diagram, We were able to ascertain which wires were used for what circuits and aided the troubleshooting immensely. Thanks for all your replies. I will let you know you when I get the new relay if it solves this problem.

whiplash473 · Oct 21, 2016

I make it a routine every oil change to spray my door locks and grease my door hinges. I spray the door hinges with aerosol lithium grease but the reason I'm saying it for this thread is I use Tri-Flow for the door lock cylinders. It works great and, unlike spray graphite, it doesn't harden up. Been using it on this truck since new and I'm still on all the original lock cylinders without any issues (including winters).

EDIT: for what it's worth, I throw a quick spray in the ignition cylinder too.

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/00157545?cid=ppc-google-*Demo+-+DSA+Restructured_siDnmx8lu__cat:lubricant_b_97959249064_c_S&mkwid=siDnmx8lu|dc&pcrid=97959249064&gclid=CjwKEAjw-abABRDquOTJi8qdojwSJABt1S1OgQ0IBGP0NSBlClBNzNmY6NTHsl9c0ZOU4c0laoMWXhoCy0jw_wcB

what's wrong with my door locks?

AbramF_496

I'm Awesome

allfritz123

Newbie

michael hurd

Stalker be gone.

michael hurd

Stalker be gone.

allfritz123

Newbie

whiplash473

Tyler

Similar threads

Latest posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Share this page