Project; Burnt Up

df2x4 said:

Also personally I'd think about eliminating that capacitor. I've run them before and they tend to create more problems than they solve IMO. Once you get a nicer alternator I'd definitely ditch it.

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laidbackbigun said:

Thanks guys for chiming in guys. Hopefully by next winter i can get 2 Kinetik batteries and my singer 300 amp alternator.

The MTX actually has provisions for the capacitor right off the amp. Don't ask me why but by ear dyno the amp sounds cleaner with the cap as compared to without. Plus its got a voltage gauge right on it, so for cheesy look i score, HA.

So whats the general poll on where i put those air gauges, i think its trick. Free real estate and i can still use the cubbie for my alpine remote. My AVS switchbox doesn't fit but oh well.

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laidbackbigun said:

Okay so for the front i went with Thorbros bag cups and had to chop those down a 1/2 top and 1/4 bottom. I should have just specified what i wanted them cut to when they were made cause it took 2 weeks to get them anyways. I have airbaggit.com Denominator 2600's in the front on 3/8 line going to Easystreet chrome valves under the cab on frame rail. I pie cut the frame behind the bag to allow the lower control arms to rise up far enough to lay on the 20's. I used ART shock re locators and Thorbros lower shock studs. I also rebuilt the entire steering linkage with MOOG parts. I used Moog upper and lower ball joints. I tried pie cutting the area in front of the bag for the tie rods but found i'm still going to have to notch anyways. Weird but i guess every truck is just a little different.

I took out the factory inner fender well and used trailer fenders. Not the best looking job but you should see the finished result. I used a Blox racing 3x10 coolant overflow tank capable of recirc. for the coolant over flow and its mounted basically where the factory one is.

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