bleeding the rears

After some lookin around this forum, I may have created my own nightmare. I just picked up a 90 W/T 1500 2wd. with no brakes at all. So I what I've done so far,new calipers+ pads, all 3 hoses, one new wheel cylinder, new vac booster and 2 mc's, deleted the rwal. I have blown out the lines with air before installing the mc, and have gone through 1.5 gals of brake fluid trying to bleed the brakes. The fronts have bled but are locking up when I bleed the rears, and am hardly getting any fluid to the rears. First mc was a reman from AZ which I've taken back and purchased a new mc from orielys. So I'm wondering if I may be pushing the piston too far in when bench bleeding the mc, the reason I'm not getting good fluid flow to the rears? Just to claireify the front bleeding first is because I at first just did the fronts then found the passenger side wheel cylinder leaking.

Crack the bleeders a little on both sides of the rear and walk away for a while, maybe drink a 12 pack while waiting. Let gravity do its thing. If after an hour or so there is nothing dripping out then you might have some kind of blockage that the compressed air didn't clear out. The line could also be kinked where it's not visible (or in my case almost rusted through).

Is the brake light on in the dash? Not sure how it's set up on your truck, but there's usually a proportioning valve right downstream of the master cylinder that will close off the rear brake circuit if there's a large enough pressure differential between front and rear. The point behind it is so that if you have a leak in the back, it will isolate that segment and you'd still have front brakes. A warning light would usually come on on the dash.

It's possibly a matter of resetting that valve then to allow fluid into the rear. There should be a rubber cap on the end of the proportioning valve. Take that off and there should be a pin under it. Hold the pin down while someone hits the brake pedal. That may do the trick.

No guarantees that this is your problem, but maybe it'll help.

An update. It turned out to be the proportioning valve. No pin movement at all. Replaced it and the rears bleed good. Took the original valve apart and it was so full of crap it was froze up. As far as the calipers locking up again, bought the calipers and pads at AZ. What I got was light duty calipers with heavy duty pads. The pads got bound up in the calipers once the pedal was pushed. After checking the RPO code in the glove box, truck is a light duty W/T. So now every part is correct and she's stoppin as she should with a nice firm pedal.

Glad you got it working, thanks for the update.

So mostly it was all auto zone's fault.