Deadbeats 1997 Centurion Conversion

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deadbeat

Centurion Crew Cab
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Means KY
Just for out of curiosity I installed a moog joint as well, oh well, same end result. Now I have to figure out how to draw the driveshaft yoke together and put the new pinion yoke on. I don't understand how the driveshaft yoke was stretched, I removed the factory u joint with heat to get the plastic out and it came out very easy. The new one went in very easy, if anything you would thing they would be too tight and need stretched a hair. Not sure what to do on that, may take it to a driveshaft shop. I did find that there is a bushing in the tail housing of the transfer case, it will be installed Tuesday when it comes in as well.
 

deadbeat

Centurion Crew Cab
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I put the bushing in the end of the transfer case tail shaft. It really made a big difference, actually the truck was the best it has ever been. I have noticed that the slightest movement forward or backwards makes a huge difference in the amount of vibration I get. I didn't get to play with it much last night but there was ever so slight a vibration around 35 and that was it. This is with my 2 piece driveshaft made from the front of a 2 wheel extended cab and rear of a 4x4 4 door Tahoe. I think I may finally be able to put the nail in the coffin on this issue. Moving the front driveshaft forward on my dads centurion nearly eliminated all the vibration problems he was having, I have another tail shaft with a new bushing in it waiting to put it his at this time too. If it makes as much of a difference as it did on mine his will drive and ride as good as a new pickup. Soon I should be posting putting in new glass, rocker panels and cab corners, new doors /pins/bushings, putting on the new bed/fenders/hood, and painting the thing. Just what I have been waiting to do for the last year.
 

deadbeat

Centurion Crew Cab
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Driveshaft guys chime in, is .040 to much runout on a factory drive shaft that is balanced? I had my truck on stand in gear and noticed i could see the runout so i put a dial on it and measured it and that is what is was. Front shaft was really true, rear shaft was .040.
 

deadbeat

Centurion Crew Cab
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I finally found my squeak. There were rust holes in the back of the cab above the cab mount, the sheet metal is doubled there and the two pieces were rubbing together making an awful noise most of the time. I was never able to reproduce the noise sitting still until I stood on the front right edge of the bed and pushing down really hard like I was trying to jump. Got the wife to do that while I got under the truck and then it was no problem to find. I guess I will fix it correct when I put new cab corners on in a few months. Until then I just pried them apart.
 

deadbeat

Centurion Crew Cab
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I installed my double din with the new metra dp3003 kit. It is not factory quality clips and fitment but i will admint it isn't too bad. I did paint my vents and cupholder but think if i can find the right color tan i may put it back like the factory colors. Here is all i cut out.
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I will admit the radio was a little tight but snapped in after this. I did break the tab off the heater controls and they were a tight squeeze under the radio. There is a template to drill some holes but they fit tight enough i didn't even put the screws in.

Here is the radio installed, there is a little bit more gap on top and right than the left and bottom. To me though, it was plenty good enough and i am not going to bother trying to get it any better.

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deadbeat

Centurion Crew Cab
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I finally got that stubborn transfer case fill plug out. It was completely round and I didn't want to drill so I welded a bolt to it. I know it is an ugly weld but it was hard to weld looking up laying on my belly. I have to put a front hub assembly on it when I get time but I just about have this truck in nice mechanical shape after replacing everything.

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deadbeat

Centurion Crew Cab
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I finally tilted the dash and installed new vents flaps since mine stayed no defrost. Those rear clips were really hard to get back on, I left one off. It took me about 3 hours to get it back together. I took my dads apart after it to get the ac box off to change the evaporator, if you don't mind cracking open the ac it is easier just to pull the box, or it was in my case because the plastic didn't fit the best and I wrestled with it for a while to get it ready for the clips. Everything went back together easy but I did pull a wire loose or something because my temperature/direction on my rear view mirror are not working now.
 

deadbeat

Centurion Crew Cab
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Here is a photo of the dash dropped. It really wasn't that hard or time consuming. I pulled the passenger side off the tab and tilted it around on my dads truck and removed the air box and replaced the evaporator and heater core. Really only about a dozen or so bolts gets you this far. I moved my rear view mirror around and it came back on, might be on its way out though. I think I have finally got the truck in good driving condition and can start painting in the near future. I still need to find the bed sills or find some square tube to make them.

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deadbeat

Centurion Crew Cab
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I found a nice Denali and got some parts off it, the seats were gone but I got most of the rest of it. All 4 door panels, console with rear cupholder and no chips or cracks, rear view mirror, side view mirrors that are mint, all 4 interior door handles, front speakers, overhead console, a fog lights switch - forgot to cut off pigtail, cluster, and all the items to put in console- heater redirect, molded seat belts, rear mount for floor. My question is, how are you guys mounting these to the floor?
 
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