2000 K3500 4x4 CC DRW

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cool_as_crap

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Next up after I get back from Hawaii later this month:boobs::

- Fix short in courtesy lights.
When I put a fuse in, the interior lights stay on and can't turn off. I have a cargo light out, even after a new bulb. I'll start here and hopefully it's the same issue :33:

- Fix door locks.
The fob unlocks the passenger side only. No response from either driver or passenger door switches so i'll start by replacing them, hopefully I don't need to replace any actuators.

- Fix A/C
 

OutlawDrifter

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door lock actuators aren't very hard to change on these pickups.
 
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door lock actuators aren't very hard to change on these pickups.

Nope. Two pop rivets and a little time.

I replaced 3 of mine on a saturday evening.

Found em on ebay for around $20 shipped (not OEM).

Old ones were water logged... weird. Truck has never been underwater and the raincoats on the actuators were intact.
 

cool_as_crap

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Update on the truck, I've found a coolant leak down the front under the intake manifold. It also has a delayed hot start issue which, coupled with the black smoke on startup, tells me I need new injectors.
Thank you forums! :biggrin:

Now I'm compiling a parts list of what to replace while everything is apart.
  • Intake manifold upper and lower gaskets
  • Cap/rotor (looks like it will be easier to change during this process)
  • Bosch injectors from fiveomotorsports
The truck also has a tick that I've been wondering about.
I plugged the exhaust to look for leaks and found one where the passenger exhaust manifold bolts to the rest of the exhaust.
I also listened with the stethoscope on all reachable surfaces but I wasn't able to pinpoint anything, other than it seems to be coming from the passenger side where the exhaust leak is. Maybe i'll get lucky and that's my only problem.

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And finally I've been considering a cam swap while i'm at it:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/2162/10002/-1

IDK much about cam swaps if this will be a noticeable improvement, and I'm also worried it may mess up my idle too much and fail smog.
 

Justin S

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The tick definitely sounds like upper engine, so while you have the intake off might as well look into it there so you don't have to do it again. Instead of a stethoscope, try a long screwdriver or a prybar pressed to your ear, that can help pinpoint noises easier.
 

Mangonesailor

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The tick definitely sounds like upper engine, so while you have the intake off might as well look into it there so you don't have to do it again. Instead of a stethoscope, try a long screwdriver or a prybar pressed to your ear, that can help pinpoint noises easier.

Ditto. Pull the intake valley tray and take a look at the cam lobes. Pull the valve covers too and poke around in there. If you need a cam (or valve train work), well, you're half-way to a cam it and might as well leave the motor open for it.
 

cool_as_crap

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I dropped the truck off yesterday at a shop as sort of a last resort, and final check for the hell of it before I dive in to the repairs.

They called me today and suggested the hot start may be my FPR, but they would test the injectors also.
They also weren't able to determine the tick, they said maybe the lifters, but they have to tear it apart to see.
Then they got to the estimate of roughly $1200 for labor and gaskets :jawdrop:
I immediately declined and will pick it up today :33:

On the plus side, they found the issue with my AC is only a leaking schrader valve on the low side and my compressor is still in good shape.

So now I'm getting ready again to do the deed myself, just have the injectors to order.

...right after I hit it with some seafoam as a last ditch effort :Big Laugh:

The tick definitely sounds like upper engine, so while you have the intake off might as well look into it there so you don't have to do it again. Instead of a stethoscope, try a long screwdriver or a prybar pressed to your ear, that can help pinpoint noises easier.


Ditto. Pull the intake valley tray and take a look at the cam lobes. Pull the valve covers too and poke around in there. If you need a cam (or valve train work), well, you're half-way to a cam it and might as well leave the motor open for it.

My dad was also telling me about the long screwdriver thing, I'll try that this weekend.

Forewarned, If you decide to put a cam in it you need to pull the timing cover, which requires the oil pan to be dropped. If you end up needing to replace the oil pan gasket it requires pulling the front diff. It's not fun.

Dang!! :jawdrop::jawdrop:
I never stopped to look at what all I have to remove to get to that.
I shouldn't be surprised though, based on how "easy" it is to change the oil filter.

I'm starting to re-consider the cam.
 

cool_as_crap

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Update: A few days ago I changed the oil, added half a can of seafoam to the oil, drove for 90 miles, then changed the oil again. The next day after changing the oil the tick was gone and did not come back after driving it for a couple more days :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:.
I had a hunch that an internal coolant leak was causing lifter noise and I think the seafoam got rid of it.
I decided I won't mess with the lifters for now, change the intake manifold gaskets, and see if the tick stays away. If it comes back later I'll think about upgrading the cam and lifters.

I started taking everything apart this morning and called it a day after cleaning the crap off of the block. The disassembly wasn't too bad. I had to run to the hardware store for large (heater hose) and very large (egr pipe) wrenches that I needed.

The gasket around both of the front coolant passages were both bad, the drivers side being much worse.

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The upper plenum gasket that was on it was felpro, which I assume a previous owner had changed. I'm not sure if the injectors are oem or the PO may have tried swapping them when they changed the upper gasket.

Tomorrow is cleaning day and I hope to have at least the lower manifold back on, though I'm taking it slow so I don't have to do it again.
I'm really nervous about putting the distributor back in :jester:
 
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