Replacing hydraulic lifters

Hey guys, I've got a lifter that is sticking, so gonna replace them. What else should I do while I'm in there?? any upgrades that won't break my bank??? Rocker arms? etc...? Let me know your thoughts!

My truck: 97 K1500, 5.7L 350, Z71 4x4, stock. Its my daily driver.

Also, does anyone have any suggestions for lifters to get? I was gonna just get the summit brand ones.

I would definitely have each rocker arm checked at both ends for any signs of excessive wear or galling. Easy to replace, cheap, and no better time to do this job. FWIW, I once had a pushrod go through the end of a rocker, so it can happen. Pushrods should be checked to make sure none are bent. Cheap item.

Good time to put in new intake gaskets, a known failure point with these engines. Someone else will have suggestions on the best brands to get.

If the thermostat has not been changed out recently, I'd do that as well, another cheap part, and like the other items, peace of mind.

yea I agree with everything ironhead said, replace all lifters, pushrods and I would upgrade to roller rockers if you have the funds also.

I'd be extremely cautious of the summit branded lifters, there is no telling who made them, and how long they may or may not last. With the QC and metallurgy issues plaguing the lifter manufacturer market these days, I'd only go OEM for valvetrain parts. Along with inspection of the pushrods and rocker arms, also closely check the rocker arm pivot balls for galling, scoring, etc. The rocker arm nuts may need to be replaced also.

Somehow, I think the 97s had roller lifters from the factory. If so, I wonder what the real lifter (if it is the lifter) problem is. Before tearing into this engine, I'd be inclined to use a dial indicator/magnetic base to check the lift at each pushrod. Perhaps the tick is coming from another problem, such as a rocker stud moving up, or a rocker pivot nut adjustment?

Ironhead said:

Somehow, I think the 97s had roller lifters from the factory. If so, I wonder what the real lifter (if it is the lifter) problem is. Before tearing into this engine, I'd be inclined to use a dial indicator/magnetic base to check the lift at each pushrod. Perhaps the tick is coming from another problem, such as a rocker stud moving up, or a rocker pivot nut adjustment?

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All L31 engines were roller cam/lifter setups. Good point about cracking into the engine before really identifying the root cause of the tick.

All good stuff guys thank you. a couple things...

the lifters in the L31 are not hydraulic roller lifters? you are saying they are solid rollers? (that makes a big difference obviously) If I am wrong here then its unlikely its a lifter tick.

I have never used a dial indicator with a magnetic base before... can you clarify a little? this would just require removing the valve covers to test? seems like a smart decision to me, I would appreciate some more info on this or a link to something on how to use it.

I agree with using the OEM part... however the local dealer was almost $50 per lifter... with 16 lifters, we are talking way too much money. other options for OEM parts for cheap?

I don't know why but i just assumed it was a sticking lifter, the tick goes away after about 60-120 seconds after a cold start up, so seems it wouldn't be a rocker???

I've had similar issues with lifters that won't pump up on cold starts. I have had excellent results running a half quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in the cheapest engine oil I could buy for 1000 to 1500 miles and then dumping it and repeating. The MMO plus the short oil changes will help clean out and free up the lifter, and should solve your problem without ever opening the engine.

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SAATR said:

I've had similar issues with lifters that won't pump up on cold starts. I have had excellent results running a half quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in the cheapest engine oil I could buy for 1000 to 1500 miles and then dumping it and repeating. The MMO plus the short oil changes will help clean out and free up the lifter, and should solve your problem without ever opening the engine.

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Interesting, how many times did you do this? seems worth trying.

Last one I did was only one run to cure it. I have done it with two oil changes on a couple of trucks, and had good results with other makes/models with similar issues in the past.

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