Dylan's 89 c1500 scsb on going project.

2 out of 3 packages from latest order aren't bad.
Hooker super comp header
spec flywheel (had for a while sitting in parts room lol)
spec stage 3 clutch

Dakota digital VHX came in today

Managed to get a little done on the truck today. Pulled alot out of the way to make it easier on myself.


had to make some small cuts to get the plug out and then down where i wanted it.


decided to mount the vhx box inside the clove box to keep if off the firewall and away from my msd box and coil. some of the wires from old plug on the top and the water, oil and speed sensor wires on the bottom.

Hiding the btm knob in ash tray.

wiring complete

Engine all together



ok guys wanted to give a liitle more info here, Ive never had good luck with used parts. Call it bad luck or me beating on thing a little to hard either way I purchased the T56 magnum kit for my truck from american powertrain. My kit I got the wide ratio gears, Quicktime bellhousing, hydramax release bearing to get rid of mechanical linkage and various other things included in kit. One challenge I wasnt expecting was to have to check the runout on the bellhousing to the crankshaft center line, Tremec wants it to be within .005 ( five thousands). If not they say it will cause excess bearing wear, hard shifting, noise and voided watranty, of course you read guys saying its bs and you dont have to do it but i wasnt chancing it. Bolted on the bellhousing to engine and put my magnetic based indicator on the back of crankshaft and with the help of a friend rotated the engine over while watching the gauge. Found the bellhousing needed to be moved up so I got some offset dowel pins from summit, made by moroso. Removed bellhousing and put them in and adjusted to correct location ( in my case had to lift bellhousing straight up). Reinstalled bellhousing and then checked the runout again and found it was within the .005 range, YAY! Then bolted up scatter sheid, flywheel, clutch and bellhousing only to find out i had to take it off due to the shield and bellhousing blocking oil drain bolt on my moroso oil pan. Cut out spot on housing and shield and now it clears, reinstalled and then connected to trans case. Had to tie up headers in engine bay and drop engine and trans in with headers laying on side of inner fenders. Got engine and trans set in place, left stock cross member in stock location and only had to drill two new mounting holes in it so that worked out nice. Engine and trans are sitting at a 5 degree angle down towards trans tail shaft, recommended no more then 4 degrees but I will deal with that once truck is driving cause I might not have drive line vibration at the current 5 degrees. Bolted the headers to heads and everything fits, will have to continue to clean things up, wires hoses and make sure nothing is hanging or gonna get burnt/melt.







7 quart oil pan has plenty of clearance and you can see the notch made for oil drain bolt.




Had to persuade firewall to clear the headers

Dyed the dash this weekend

The blower shop 192



Comparison of the 6 rib belt from 142 to the 16 rib of the 192




Got the assessory drive pulley and hub bolted to the balancer and the lower pulley bolted to the hub.



As you can see it looks like a mirror



Got the upper pulley and idler pulley bolted on and torqued down, along with the single carb adapter plate. Have to get a slightly longer bolts for the intake manifold since the intake is thicker then previous, they should be here by Friday thanks to summit and arp's wide variety of bolts. But I had to set everything on just to get a preview of it.

Here is my ugly home made accessory bracket for the blower set up. The bracket is from the truck orginally with some modification it worked fine with the weiand 142 but I'm going to have to change some things for the TBS 192. The main issue is the t stat location is now on the front of the intake manifold and is causing the issue. The bracket is blocking where the t stat goes if you can see in pics, gonna try and cut a section out this weekend but still have braces so everything is sturdy.




Where bracket blocks T stat area on intake




Bracket bolted on engine



With accessory belt on

So the next issue I ran into was when we tried to put the blower belt on. With the wider belt comes wider pulleys obviously and well now the blower tensioner and pulley is hitting my idler pulley on accessory bracket. So after removing the idler pulley from the bracket and then installing belt on blower now that the clearance issue was out of the way we can see how far the tensioner on blower moves over and how much room we have to remount the idler pulley for the accessory bracket since thats what directs the belt under the blower snout.



No matter where i moved my existing idler pulley it was hitting something, blower snout, blower tensioner or water pump pulley. So I found that i needed a smaller pulley, went from the stock pulley around 3" down to this IMT pulley that is right about 2" and a hell of alot nicer. Stainless steel and can spin 27,000 rpms



Currently working on a mount for the pulley along with making sure the bracket clears everything. Picked up a billet specialties 90 degree water neck so it clears my bracket and leaves room to run radiator hoses around belts.

Also picked up a new MASSIVE be cool radiator, electrican fans and wiring harness to make sure this thing stays cool. Also have a buddy making a mount to cover the top of radiator that will hold it in place since it is currently just zip tyed in place for checking clearances.



Also have actually started on some of the plumbing.