something wrong with breaks not sure what?

jsleeper81 · Jan 17, 2016

east302 said:
I believe the 3/4 and 1 tons used a different system (hydraulic vs vacuum) so that's probably not a good comparison. There are some that have swapped to that system to get better braking performance.

I'm pretty sure the pedal should firm up with the engine off, but a bad booster usually makes the pedal harder to push with the engine on since vacuum assist is lost. Others can probably elaborate on that.

I'd get a shop to run the automated bleed and bleed out the lines a few times. I hear that it can take several attempts sometimes to get all of the air out.

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the truck I drove was a 1 ton as well only difference was his was not crew cab.
I'll look again but pretty sure was hydroboost.
I thoght that so long as the booster was good it would build up pressure with the truck off making the pedal get stiff I could have been misinformed though.
maybe a vacuum bleeder would be better suited vs. manual bleeding.

east302 · Jan 17, 2016

Sorry, I thought you had a 1/2 ton (and vacuum boost) but just reread your first post where you mentioned it was a 1-ton. Yes, the other truck you drove should be the same setup as yours.

The pedal should firm up when the truck is off with a vacuum booster setup. I'd think that it would function the same with the hydraulic setup as well.

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jsleeper81 · Jan 18, 2016

east302 said:
Sorry, I thought you had a 1/2 ton (and vacuum boost) but just reread your first post where you mentioned it was a 1-ton. Yes, the other truck you drove should be the same setup as yours.

The pedal should firm up when the truck is off with a vacuum booster setup. I'd think that it would function the same with the hydraulic setup as well.

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I'm going to check it next weekend but it don't matter anyways now my wife gave me thumbs up and said to just get a new booster and mc since she knows I'm eventually going to have everything replaced any ways.
so once money permits I'll just do both and be done with it and not have to worry if thats the problem or not.

the breaks and suspension where just the first things I wanted to focus on more than anything even though I know its needing a new engine what goods a new engine if the truck wont drive straight or stop lol.

east302 · Jan 18, 2016

Good luck with it, please let us know what resolves the problem. The "soft brake" issue comes up frequently.

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eluwak · Jan 18, 2016

This is interesting because I've been having similar problems on my Suburban. It's time again for the regular fluid flush, but I wanted to get some of these issues figured out too. I'll have to check the hoses. The brakes have been the only thing I haven't liked about this truck so far.

jsleeper81 · Jan 24, 2016

eluwak said:
This is interesting because I've been having similar problems on my Suburban. It's time again for the regular fluid flush, but I wanted to get some of these issues figured out too. I'll have to check the hoses. The brakes have been the only thing I haven't liked about this truck so far.

Yeah, I like every thing about the truck when I first test drove it compare to these newer trucks this one actually feels like a real truck. the breaks do work I've driven it more and it really does feel like there is alot of air in the lines because it takes more than half pedal travel for the breaks to start taking effect.
once I figure out what solves this problem I will definently let you all know just have not been able to get around to it with work and weather.

Tavi · Feb 9, 2016

I have a 92 K3500. I bought about three years ago. Brakes felt good. Not brand new car good. But good. About a month ago the pedal started sinking almost to the floor, at least it felt like during a butt pucker stop. The brake light came on and stayed on until I removed the ABS unit. There is very good sticky on this forum. Bled brakes and they are firm and worderful.
Although the brake system changed from 94 to 95(I believe).
I would still venture to say your dilemma is probably your ABS unit.

Ironhead · Feb 9, 2016

The brakes are a system. Each part of the system has to work properly. Master cylinder, ABS unit, proportioning valve, lines, flex lines, calipers/wheel cylinders, friction surfaces.

Considering how important brakes are, it jus makes good sense to be sure each part of the system does its job. If just one part fails, you may be injured or worse. I think all of us have looked up at the road ahead, and realized we had to stop like RIGHT NOW!

Glad you were able to find the flex line problem, but if one went, how about the other two? And the pedal feel problem means there's something else not quite right. Maybe time to actuate the ABS, then bleed and flush the entire system. You can actuate the ABS with some scan tools, or else take the truck out on a slippery surface and jam on the brakes.

The peace of mind is worth it.

jsleeper81 · Feb 14, 2016

I wanted to say thanks for everyone advice.
the flex line was one problem which was resolved, my latest issue was I made a mistake and didn't realize it until today.
When I was testing the flex line I never sealed the brake system and apperently that allowed alot of air to get into the system normal bleeding could not help. a buddy of mine came over and vacume bled the front lines for me today the backs where still good seeing as I never really messed with those.
All I can say is D*mn what a huge improvement from what it was before the pedal starts gaining feeling of breaking around 1/2 an inch of pressure on the pedal.
now my next step is new discs in front and a complete rear drum rebuild and I will go from there.
still can use some improvement but at least it is operable now.
again thank you to all of you.

Ironhead · Feb 15, 2016

Glad this is all working out for you.

When you do something like this, it gives you a great feeling of accomplishment (Ihope), and that's one of the reasons that messing around with cars and trucks is a good hobby.

something wrong with breaks not sure what?

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