custom bench seat

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1994chevymanual

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so my bench seat needs to be redone. I am a little lost when it comes to upholstery material on what kinds and types are out there. So my thoughts are i need a material that will look good and breath because it is my Summer driver and it does not have A/C. What kinds of material should i be looking at? also i want to add a custom touch by having a decent sized bow-tie put on it in the center as well. HOw much does it typically cost to have one re done in just labor? I want a clean cut look with a smooth look , the interior of the truck is grey and a 94 dash

THANKS GUYS!
 

Jrgunn5150

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I had the low back buckets in my FJ40 done for 250, including marine vinyl. The bench on my F100 was 300, complete.

I'm not much help on fabrics, but I would suggest looking at newer seats to swap in. Our shop truck at work is an 07-up Chevy, and has a really nice bench, considering its the bottom dollar bargain basement model.
 

sewlow

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You want to use a material that is man-made. No cotton.
Man-made materials are stuff like Polyfin, Olyfin, Nylon & Polyester blends, etc. I highly recommend that because the fibers are too slick to hold stains & are easy to clean.
They breathe so the are cool in the Summer, warm in the Winter, & they wear like iron!
Heavier, more dense fabrics are harder to ignite, & burn more slowly than lighter ones.
There's a lotta different factors that figure into the final cost of a seat recover. Some won't be apparent until the seat is stripped down to the frame. Some will have nothing to do with the actual sewn cover.
I wouldn't give an estimate on any job over the phone or without more than a few detailed pix of the seat. It's like someone phoning a body shop & asking..."How much to fix the dent in my car?"
But some aspects that have to be covered & discussed with the owner before work begins are,
#1. What's your budget?
#2. Stock/original or something custom?
-Stock/original materials can be expensive. Really expensive! Not because they are better, but many times the original auto manufacturer has priority ownership. So many fingers in that pie by the time it gets to the parts counter!
-Custom gets into how intricate the customer wants the project to be. Most times, anything that the customer desires is pretty well possible. But...the more intricate, the more expensive. My shop rate is $60.00/hr. It's nothing to spend an extra 10 hours, 20 hours &/or more working on a custom seat over & above the normal time for a straight recover job. Well that $400.00 quick recover is now pushing up to the $1600.00 to $2400.00 final end cost!
#3. What shape is the main body of the foam cushion(s) & backrest(s)? Repairs take time. Of course, the more experience the upholstery guy has, the less time he'll spend to do these repairs, if required.
#4. What condition are the frame & tracks in? This is usually not apparent until the seat is torn down. The way I do things, I feel that these parts of the seat have to be attended to when a seat gets recovered. Nothing worse than having a 'new' seat, & the tracks don't work a week after the job has left the shop. Or the driver is sitting too low due some broken springs that should of been fixed in the first place. Or a crack in the frame that should of been welded up but wasn't, only to snap a month or two down the road. Hey, it's already apart so it's in my & your best interests to make sure that all is right & correct. I see this as the difference between a GOOD job & a GREAT job! But it's also time on the clock to repair, IF this is required!
#5. The labor rate is the same whether I use a quality high end material that will meet & exceed expectations or a cheaper, less-well performing one. For the amount of material in one of these bench seats (4-4.5 linear yards) the difference between using a low-end material at a cost of, say $15-$20.00/yard, or a better quality of material in the $35-$50.00(+)/yard range is a matter of only around $100.00 to $150.00 or so. That higher end material will outlast the cheaper one 3-5X longer! Why spend that money for labor to have a proper job done, if the materials don't hold up?
#6. What is & what will the market bear in your area, price wise, when it comes to upholstery work. I do this to make money as does anyone else in this trade. You pay for the experience & knowledge of the tradesman. In turn, his experience will generally make for a faster turn-around time. There will always be someone that will do what I do for cheaper! Always! But, I will warranty my work for one year. Those guys that are doing the job for cheaper...are they gonna be around in a year IF some warranty work is needed? Was their quality all that high to begin with? Was the job less-expensive due to short-cuts being taken? Cheaper is not always better! There's a reason behind those low-cost jobs!
All this factors into the final price of an upholstery job.
I take pride in my work. So should whomever does this for you. I'm only as good as my last job, no matter how long I've been doing this! If I wouldn't be happy with your project in my own vehicle, well then, why should you be? You get what you pay for. (At least in my shop, anyways!)
 

Jrgunn5150

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You want to use a material that is man-made. No cotton.
Man-made materials are stuff like Polyfin, Olyfin, Nylon & Polyester blends, etc. I highly recommend that because the fibers are too slick to hold stains & are easy to clean.
They breathe so the are cool in the Summer, warm in the Winter, & they wear like iron!
Heavier, more dense fabrics are harder to ignite, & burn more slowly than lighter ones.
There's a lotta different factors that figure into the final cost of a seat recover. Some won't be apparent until the seat is stripped down to the frame. Some will have nothing to do with the actual sewn cover.
I wouldn't give an estimate on any job over the phone or without more than a few detailed pix of the seat. It's like someone phoning a body shop & asking..."How much to fix the dent in my car?"
But some aspects that have to be covered & discussed with the owner before work begins are,
#1. What's your budget?
#2. Stock/original or something custom?
-Stock/original materials can be expensive. Really expensive! Not because they are better, but many times the original auto manufacturer has priority ownership. So many fingers in that pie by the time it gets to the parts counter!
-Custom gets into how intricate the customer wants the project to be. Most times, anything that the customer desires is pretty well possible. But...the more intricate, the more expensive. My shop rate is $60.00/hr. It's nothing to spend an extra 10 hours, 20 hours &/or more working on a custom seat over & above the normal time for a straight recover job. Well that $400.00 quick recover is now pushing up to the $1600.00 to $2400.00 final end cost!
#3. What shape is the main body of the foam cushion(s) & backrest(s)? Repairs take time. Of course, the more experience the upholstery guy has, the less time he'll spend to do these repairs, if required.
#4. What condition are the frame & tracks in? This is usually not apparent until the seat is torn down. The way I do things, I feel that these parts of the seat have to be attended to when a seat gets recovered. Nothing worse than having a 'new' seat, & the tracks don't work a week after the job has left the shop. Or the driver is sitting too low due some broken springs that should of been fixed in the first place. Or a crack in the frame that should of been welded up but wasn't, only to snap a month or two down the road. Hey, it's already apart so it's in my & your best interests to make sure that all is right & correct. I see this as the difference between a GOOD job & a GREAT job! But it's also time on the clock to repair, IF this is required!
#5. The labor rate is the same whether I use a quality high end material that will meet & exceed expectations or a cheaper, less-well performing one. For the amount of material in one of these bench seats (4-4.5 linear yards) the difference between using a low-end material at a cost of, say $15-$20.00/yard, or a better quality of material in the $35-$50.00(+)/yard range is a matter of only around $100.00 to $150.00 or so. That higher end material will outlast the cheaper one 3-5X longer! Why spend that money for labor to have a proper job done, if the materials don't hold up?
#6. What is & what will the market bear in your area, price wise, when it comes to upholstery work. I do this to make money as does anyone else in this trade. You pay for the experience & knowledge of the tradesman. In turn, his experience will generally make for a faster turn-around time. There will always be someone that will do what I do for cheaper! Always! But, I will warranty my work for one year. Those guys that are doing the job for cheaper...are they gonna be around in a year IF some warranty work is needed? Was their quality all that high to begin with? Was the job less-expensive due to short-cuts being taken? Cheaper is not always better! There's a reason behind those low-cost jobs!
All this factors into the final price of an upholstery job.
I take pride in my work. So should whomever does this for you. I'm only as good as my last job, no matter how long I've been doing this! If I wouldn't be happy with your project in my own vehicle, well then, why should you be? You get what you pay for. (At least in my shop, anyways!)


I totally agree, if you really care, use someone like this. I don't, so... here I am lmao.
 

1994chevymanual

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You want to use a material that is man-made. No cotton.
Man-made materials are stuff like Polyfin, Olyfin, Nylon & Polyester blends, etc. I highly recommend that because the fibers are too slick to hold stains & are easy to clean.
They breathe so the are cool in the Summer, warm in the Winter, & they wear like iron!
Heavier, more dense fabrics are harder to ignite, & burn more slowly than lighter ones.
There's a lotta different factors that figure into the final cost of a seat recover. Some won't be apparent until the seat is stripped down to the frame. Some will have nothing to do with the actual sewn cover.
I wouldn't give an estimate on any job over the phone or without more than a few detailed pix of the seat. It's like someone phoning a body shop & asking..."How much to fix the dent in my car?"
But some aspects that have to be covered & discussed with the owner before work begins are,
#1. What's your budget?
#2. Stock/original or something custom?
-Stock/original materials can be expensive. Really expensive! Not because they are better, but many times the original auto manufacturer has priority ownership. So many fingers in that pie by the time it gets to the parts counter!
-Custom gets into how intricate the customer wants the project to be. Most times, anything that the customer desires is pretty well possible. But...the more intricate, the more expensive. My shop rate is $60.00/hr. It's nothing to spend an extra 10 hours, 20 hours &/or more working on a custom seat over & above the normal time for a straight recover job. Well that $400.00 quick recover is now pushing up to the $1600.00 to $2400.00 final end cost!
#3. What shape is the main body of the foam cushion(s) & backrest(s)? Repairs take time. Of course, the more experience the upholstery guy has, the less time he'll spend to do these repairs, if required.
#4. What condition are the frame & tracks in? This is usually not apparent until the seat is torn down. The way I do things, I feel that these parts of the seat have to be attended to when a seat gets recovered. Nothing worse than having a 'new' seat, & the tracks don't work a week after the job has left the shop. Or the driver is sitting too low due some broken springs that should of been fixed in the first place. Or a crack in the frame that should of been welded up but wasn't, only to snap a month or two down the road. Hey, it's already apart so it's in my & your best interests to make sure that all is right & correct. I see this as the difference between a GOOD job & a GREAT job! But it's also time on the clock to repair, IF this is required!
#5. The labor rate is the same whether I use a quality high end material that will meet & exceed expectations or a cheaper, less-well performing one. For the amount of material in one of these bench seats (4-4.5 linear yards) the difference between using a low-end material at a cost of, say $15-$20.00/yard, or a better quality of material in the $35-$50.00(+)/yard range is a matter of only around $100.00 to $150.00 or so. That higher end material will outlast the cheaper one 3-5X longer! Why spend that money for labor to have a proper job done, if the materials don't hold up?
#6. What is & what will the market bear in your area, price wise, when it comes to upholstery work. I do this to make money as does anyone else in this trade. You pay for the experience & knowledge of the tradesman. In turn, his experience will generally make for a faster turn-around time. There will always be someone that will do what I do for cheaper! Always! But, I will warranty my work for one year. Those guys that are doing the job for cheaper...are they gonna be around in a year IF some warranty work is needed? Was their quality all that high to begin with? Was the job less-expensive due to short-cuts being taken? Cheaper is not always better! There's a reason behind those low-cost jobs!
All this factors into the final price of an upholstery job.
I take pride in my work. So should whomever does this for you. I'm only as good as my last job, no matter how long I've been doing this! If I wouldn't be happy with your project in my own vehicle, well then, why should you be? You get what you pay for. (At least in my shop, anyways!)
wow! thank you and i ahve a 400 budget
 

sewlow

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Hey, no prob!
There are a few ways that you could save a buck or 2.
Ask your upholstery guy if he minds you just bringing in just the covers themselves. They're quite easy to remove. The re-&-re of the covers, I can help you with.
Some upholstery guys don't like that. I don't mind, as then there is less to clutter up the shop. You can do whatever foam repairs are required. If you want, I can help you out with that, too.
Doing the re-&-re yourself will save you the hour or two it would take a competent upholsterer to do. It only takes about 20 minutes to strip the seat down, but, of course, it'll take time to install them, especially for someone without the experience. Don't worry. It's not rocket science! Lol! If you know which end of a wrench is which & are capable of any type of maintenance, you can do it! The time you save doing the re-&-re yourself can be put towards getting the upholsterer to do some personalizing of the cover for you. That 2 hours saved is $120.00! (In my shop, anyhow!)
But please, just to make things go smooth with your upholsterer, don't show up with the covers already removed & some kinda fabric that you bought at 'Fanny's Fabrics'! That's taking away any real profit, plus the initiative for the guy making the covers. And any type of warranty he may have offered on his work too!
That's like gong to a deli & saying..."I got the meat. I got the bread. Could you make me a sandwich?" That just makes me see red!
It's one thing to be budget conscious. It's another thing to be cheap. Your stitcher guy has to make some money. That way he'll be in business for when you need him, next time around.
 

1994chevymanual

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gunna try and bring my thread back to life but I want a big ass bow tie put in the middle of this. Where can I get one I am having a hard time fining one?
 

sewlow

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Anything's possible. Check with your upholstery guy. He should have patterns & designs in stock that he's used before, if he's worth his salt!
Here's a couple of ideas on different methods I've used in the past.

3 dimensional.
Requires exact patterning & stitching over top of some fairly dense 1/2" foam, which is then cut away from the back in the areas not to be raised. I have as much time, if not more, on the backside of this as the front.
The pattern was taken from a picture of the logo, then expanded to the appropriate size. Printed out on paper, the logo was then cut out of that & laid out onto the vinyl where I wanted it.

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Then there is this style.
With this, I drew the flames onto the top material first. When sewing, I put a second piece of material under the area being sewn. Also back up with that 1/2" foam. After the stitching was done, the flames were then cut away to expose that second one underneath.
To get the color fade, I pre-dyed the second material in the fade from red to gold before sewing
The only prob with this, is that the raw edge of the top material is exposed. Evident be the white edges of the white backing on that top material. The customer wanted white outlines on the flames. Best idea that I could come up with!
I used a short stitch in order to lessen the chance of the top material being caught & pulled away from the second one. Intricate stitching needs short stitches. Requires a slow, steady hand when cutting out the flames after they were sewn so as to get a nice clean edge without any nicks or burrs. Sharp scissors, right to the very tip, too!

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This pic shows the white backing of that top material.
And...just for the 'Show-off' factor, (hehe!) check the piping around the edge of the seat.
Fades from red at the front, to gold at the rear & then around & back to red at the front again.

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Ironhead

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Just gotta say how much I love that beautiful V8 on the seatback. Real, real nice work. Reminds me of my doorbell in the house. I put a Ford V8 and a "Deluxe" from a 40 Ford on the doorbell housing. Sorry to put this in this thread, but that V8 by SewLow was just fantastic.
 
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