Need some help guys..

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retorq

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Get yourself a scanner (to read fuel trims, o2 sensors and a bunch of other stuff besides codes) and fuel pressure gauge if you want to start diagnosing it. Or take it to a reputable shop for diagnosis.

edit - nvm, just realized this is an obd1

95 was that weird year. You can still read those, you just need the right setup.
 

tom joyce

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Check the wire and connector to your knock sensor. Make sure it isn't rubbing on anything. It's on the lower right side of the block.
When it is running, give the block a few very very very very light tap with a hammer in the area of the knock sensor. The engine should skip, mis-fire, or shut down completely. If the engine keeps running normal after you tap on it - your knock sensor is probably messed up.
Changing it requires a complete coolant drain - including the block...
 

Vjcamp

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Get yourself a scanner (to read fuel trims, o2 sensors and a bunch of other stuff besides codes) and fuel pressure gauge if you want to start diagnosing it. Or take it to a reputable shop for diagnosis.

edit - nvm, just realized this is an obd1
 

Vjcamp

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OBD 1 still gives Fuel Trim
They are called Block Learn ( Long term) and Integrator ( Short Term )
I believe Innova makes a relatively inexpensive ( compared to some tools I use at the shop ) tool that reads codes and displays data
Think it is #3120 ?

Data stream is the best way to troubleshoot, have someone drive while you watch data when problem occurs
 

L31MaxExpress

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Have the battery checked at your local parts store, I believe O' Reilly's and AutoZone will do this. Also a good idea to swap the fuel filter along the frame out if you haven't done that lately, it's only about $20 and half an hour of work if you work slowly. A new distributor cap would be my next step after that.

The whole "dies on right turn not on left" can most likely be chalked up to just "finicky actions". I'm sure there's a scientific reasoning behind it (i.e. the power steering pump is on the driver's side of the truck so it doesn't require as much power to pull?) I'm just rambling at this point however. If that doesn't work, pull some codes and come back to us. We're here to help.

Just a random thought. I once ran across a Mercruiser 260 HP 350 that would stall on hard acceleration. I chased the problem for hours. Fuel pressure was good. Timing was good. Compression was good. Fresh carb rebuild did nothing. If you came up on plane slowly it would run WOT all day long. I glanced over and noticed it had a sideways mounted car battery in it. Yep the plates in the car battery did not survive the harsh marine enviroment shocks and jolts and had come loose internally. The g-force and angle of the boat accelerating hard and coming up on plane was shorting the battery internally, killing the electrical system, stalling the engine. Replaced the battery with a new marine battery and it ran flawlessly. So that right turn only stall could have something behind it.
 
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Get yourself a scanner (to read fuel trims, o2 sensors and a bunch of other stuff besides codes) and fuel pressure gauge if you want to start diagnosing it. Or take it to a reputable shop for diagnosis.

edit - nvm, just realized this is an obd1
Psst you can get that info from obd1 as well.
 
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