AD244 is the build architecture of the alternator itself. Both of those alternators you listed should be the same external dimensions and connections. :waytogo:
Just sharing a mod. I haven't tried any aftermarket 3rd brake lights/cargo lights, but I wasted a whole bunch of time COBbling (get it?) COB lights behind the factory 3rd brake light/cargo lens.
Comparison shot incandescent vs. LED board. Operating at full voltage, truck running. I know...
Finally did this, and it works great. I tore my truck all apart trying to find a different way to do it - this method is definitely the easiest and most effective. I made a mess trying to get creative with it. :jester:
I used a butt splice and opted for liquid tape to seal it from corrosion...
I've bought aftermarket components for years and it's fun to watch the accessories change with the times. I know I bought a set of 2005-popular JC Whitney tail lights that I liked enough to buy again for nostalgia sake when I saw them on eBay.
The reflector in the reverse light was excellent...
Thanks for following up on this. I know this thread is old, but there's lots of helpful info that we've discovered and tried over the years. Makes it easier for the next guy. :waytogo:
I apologize in advance if I'm not much help. But how picky are you on it being brand new? Only asking because another member has a chrome OEM one in our classifieds right now if you haven't seen it. :)
I don't have any experience with Holley's new ones. The former LMC Taiwanese...
I would've thought rebuild prices would have come down for those by now. The 5 speed truck transmissions (not the NAG1 like the cars) also costed $1,800 for a rebuild... And that was more than a decade ago!
That situation was on an EBL Flash with a smaller Comp "Computer Controlled," cam. I'm not sure if it was a band-aid for excessive cylinder pressure, fuel distribution, or another error on my part. ...Tuning slightly richer than textbook worked for me. :driver:
The big cam learning...
My apologies, looks like this was discussed maybe 40 pages ago and I entirely missed the memo. :rofl: These are just ideas...
Short version: if you're still showing knock at idle with your newly adjusted timing, try adding a little fuel and see if it reduces it or goes away. I'm not sure if...
I know this is a long thread, I'll have to look up your cam specs a little further.
Edit: I looked, and I spy 110° lobe separation. We'll also have to mind your plug heat range, static compression, and/or cylinder pressure. We might not be able to completely eliminate all false knocks...
More advance with a bigger cams are usually needed at idle. With more overlap and lower RPM, you'll net more knock counts. It sounds cooler with a rougher idle, but 20°+ will get you a smoother idle, more vacuum, and should achieve less knock.
Also, Comp typically grinds an additional 4° of...
Not uncommon where I live. I passed on a '93 full-size Blazer with 80,000 miles because it sat outside it's whole life as a plow truck. It was in similar shape.
No rockers (not exaggerating), all fenders had rust holes, floor was going...Frame, axle, rear floor, and control arms extremely...