Bit late, sorry fellas.. so after I got the truck back( i sent it in for a 9" rear swap, with disk brakes ) had the shop while in the brake system change the master to the NBS, added stainless braided lines up front, abs deleted, and wilwood proportioning valve.. have to say, truck doesnt seem...
Getting a driveshaft made up. However a question was posed will it fit ?
Th400 to a ford 9”
Spinning 7k rpm and wanting Hp rating 950.
Am told by PST Drive shafts I’d need an aluminum 5” shaft based on the length I need/hp/rpm
Will this have enough clearance ?? Say around fuel tank( stock )
I’ll have to check again. I know there is. I just didn’t wanna mess with tune since it was Done and dynoed. I’ll get into the system and check it out Tomorrow.
This was done at idle, booster disconnected, gauge to booster line. Let idle, then checked at 3k rpm to see. My helper is vehicle illiterate so it’s been a rough day lmfao
I even smoke tested and found zero smoke pushing out anywhere.
Engine also assembled by a great reputable shop in Nc...
doing this in morning. And checking vac as well. Also. Running a rear setup with no parking brake.
Will check in morning. Also it was tuned by a reputable shop in nc so I’m sure whatever needed to be done was done. Converter I don’t think has a play here as this is a newish issue.
Idle is set higher due to large cam, I’m gonna look into the booster some more. Try a few things out. I’ve been getting a lot of it’s the booster failing comments from other places as well. Just wanna be sure
Also, with testing it this Way, unsafe to drive with no booster vac. How do you safely test this with foot on brake and in gear. With no vac to booster couldn’t I risk damaging diaphragm?
Okay, so I hooked up my laptop to it. Let her warm up and logged a trip. While braking coming to a light. Pedal felt fine before stall. Went to stall. Pedal got hard, saved it. Pedal normal. Got to stop.
Here’s my table for idle :