ADVICE: FLUSHING OUT "OIL SENDING SWITCH" PASSAGE. 92' 350V8 TBI 5.7

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Jeffgmcgrr

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Any progress?


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to be honest I've been so busy the last 2 days that I haven't touched it since the last time I set the dizzy. After reading your advice, I am going to pull the valve cover which I barely did any ways to replace the seal, I like to understand what's going on behind closed doors.

My only question is once I have both Rockers on TDC, and I go to put the distributor back in what if it does what it did last time and doesn't completely seat? Referencing that quarter inch that it'll hold up sometimes if that bottom prong in the distributor isn't lined up with the oil pump or whatever??
 

7thdarkangel

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to be honest I've been so busy the last 2 days that I haven't touched it since the last time I set the dizzy. After reading your advice, I am going to pull the valve cover which I barely did any ways to replace the seal, I like to understand what's going on behind closed doors.

My only question is once I have both Rockers on TDC, and I go to put the distributor back in what if it does what it did last time and doesn't completely seat? Referencing that quarter inch that it'll hold up sometimes if that bottom prong in the distributor isn't lined up with the oil pump or whatever??

If it doesn’t seat all the way pull the dizzy back out. Take a light and look down the hole. You will see a flat head slot that need to line up with the pin on the bottom of the dizzy. That’s the shaft to your oil pump. Take a long flat head and turn it a little bit and try the dizzy again. As you know the rotor moves when installing the dizzy. So if you want you #1 spark post pointing at cylinder 1. You have to plan accordingly. Set the rotor behind where you want it to end up and let it rotate into the position you want. The just adjust the dizzy base to match the post to the rotor and your good to go.

Sorry if the info is a little jumbled. Going on 48 hours being up.


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Jeffgmcgrr

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If it doesn’t seat all the way pull the dizzy back out. Take a light and look down the hole. You will see a flat head slot that need to line up with the pin on the bottom of the dizzy. That’s the shaft to your oil pump. Take a long flat head and turn it a little bit and try the dizzy again. As you know the rotor moves when installing the dizzy. So if you want you #1 spark post pointing at cylinder 1. You have to plan accordingly. Set the rotor behind where you want it to end up and let it rotate into the position you want. The just adjust the dizzy base to match the post to the rotor and your good to go.

Sorry if the info is a little jumbled. Going on 48 hours being up.


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Get some sleep goofball....! I feel you though, lol, haven't slept much over the last few days much either.... snack and nap time!

I'll keep you posted
 

Jeffgmcgrr

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Well I just went for a ride.... IN MY TRUCK.

After pulling the valve cover and doing my best to understand rocker movements, while my eight yr old bumped the key, I was lucky enough to at least get my timing close enough to work.

I no longer have oil leaking from the pressure sending unit fitting and last but not least I was finally able to test that used transmission I put in 2 months ago.

If I plug the electronic timing control in, the truck eventually will bog out in idle....

Anyways it's been snowing and it was cold but I'm finally starting to feel good about my truck for the first time in a few months. Thank you for all your help
 

7thdarkangel

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Well I just went for a ride.... IN MY TRUCK.

After pulling the valve cover and doing my best to understand rocker movements, while my eight yr old bumped the key, I was lucky enough to at least get my timing close enough to work.

I no longer have oil leaking from the pressure sending unit fitting and last but not least I was finally able to test that used transmission I put in 2 months ago.

If I plug the electronic timing control in, the truck eventually will bog out in idle....

Anyways it's been snowing and it was cold but I'm finally starting to feel good about my truck for the first time in a few months. Thank you for all your help


Nice to hear it running. As for the timing. Disconnect the battery and unplug the timing wire. Hook the battery back up. And with a timing light make sure your timing is set to 0. Once that is know. With the truck off plug the timing wire back in and start the truck. Because the battery was disconnected, it will have to “learn” the timing again. So drive it around a bit and it should smooth out.


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evilunclegrimace

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Nice to hear it running. As for the timing. Disconnect the battery and unplug the timing wire. Hook the battery back up. And with a timing light make sure your timing is set to 0. Once that is know. With the truck off plug the timing wire back in and start the truck. Because the battery was disconnected, it will have to “learn” the timing again. So drive it around a bit and it should smooth out.


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Guys, there is no need to disconnect the battery to unplug the EST bypass wire. just unplug it, set the base timing, tighten the distributor down, reconnect the EST bypass wire and then clear the code that will be set.
 

Jeffgmcgrr

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Guys, there is no need to disconnect the battery to unplug the EST bypass wire. just unplug it, set the base timing, tighten the distributor down, reconnect the EST bypass wire and then clear the code that will be set.
I know how to test the codes with a staple or paperclip or whatever but how do you clear the codes without disconnecting the battery
 

Jeffgmcgrr

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****** news is...... my first solution started to leak. It was pretty deflating, much smaller leak though.. but I pulled the distributor again and removed the sending units brass elbow as well as degreased the **** out of it..... now am off to solution number two.

In the meantime I did replace the radiator that was warrantied from about 3 years ago and finally got around to putting the flex plate cover the bottom radiator shroud if you will as well as the exhaust back together. Pretty discouraged about the league and I think the best fixes either welding or tapping it out perhaps maybe a helicoil. I don't have any experience in this area any solutions?
 

Jeffgmcgrr

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Pull the ecm fuse.
So should I Google the ECM fuse or do you know where it is on a 92 Sierra 5.7. And then also should I pull the fuse insert the fuse and then plug the timing control in?
 
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