ADVICE: FLUSHING OUT "OIL SENDING SWITCH" PASSAGE. 92' 350V8 TBI 5.7

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Jeffgmcgrr

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here is a pic of the cap and rotor.

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There is a contact on one end of the rotor that will touch one post at a time. Pop the cap off and see where it is located under the cap and make adjustments accordingly. Also the is a slot ate the bottom of the distributor. That slot needs need to line up with the groove in the oil pump or it wont seat all the way. If it isn't lining up get a long flat head screw driver and put it down the hole for the dizzy and turn the pump a little. If you shine a light down you will see what im taking about.
Yeah buddy I'm Leaps and Bounds ahead of you here I've pulled the distributor and distributor cap about 75 times in order to fix the broken oil pressure switch housing
 

7thdarkangel

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Engine 1 firing position are both yellow. Does that mean they're both in the same position at top dead center?

Both valves should be closed at TDC compression.

Yeah buddy I'm Leaps and Bounds ahead of you here I've pulled the distributor and distributor cap about 75 times in order to fix the broken oil pressure switch housing

You never know with some people on the web.
 

Jeffgmcgrr

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Both valves should be closed at TDC compression.



You never know with some people on the web.
Okay so last question before I pull the valve cover I'll pump the engine and I will watch those valves. But what exactly am I looking for I know there are Springs around them but how do I know that they are both completely at the top or whatever
 

7thdarkangel

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Okay so last question before I pull the valve cover I'll pump the engine and I will watch those valves. But what exactly am I looking for I know there are Springs around them but how do I know that they are both completely at the top or whatever
Rotate the engine by hand using the nut in the center of the crank pulley. Pull the valve cover and rotate the engine. You will see the rockers move up and down. When the intake rocker goes up you are on the intake stroke and should be near your 0* timing mark. Rotate the engine another 360* to put the line back on TDC. But this time both rockers should not move. That is top dead center on compression. Now set your dizzy and go from there.


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7thdarkangel

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I’ll be up till about 2:00 am my time if you have any more questions.


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Bob L

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Pull #1 plug and hold your finger tightly over the hole, have some one bump the starter till the pressure pushes your finger off the hole. Now you are on compression stroke and line the mark up with TDC. No need to pull valve cover.
 

7thdarkangel

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Pull #1 plug and hold your finger tightly over the hole, have some one bump the starter till the pressure pushes your finger off the hole. Now you are on compression stroke and line the mark up with TDC. No need to pull valve cover.

This will do too. I was assuming there was no helper present.


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Jeffgmcgrr

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Rotate the engine by hand using the nut in the center of the crank pulley. Pull the valve cover and rotate the engine. You will see the rockers move up and down. When the intake rocker goes up you are on the intake stroke and should be near your 0* timing mark. Rotate the engine another 360* to put the line back on TDC. But this time both rockers should not move. That is top dead center on compression. Now set your dizzy and go from there.


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I took a spark plug out last night and for the life of me I could not hand turn that crank. even tried underneath where the splash guard is
 

7thdarkangel

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I took a spark plug out last night and for the life of me I could not hand turn that crank. even tried underneath where the splash guard is

Bumping the starter is fine. I just prefer getting it just about dead nuts by hand.


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