Where the reg cab sub guys at?

[RawbDidIt]

If you happen to think of it when you get to your computer, feel free to drop me a line. I was planning on using the plans as more of a guideline anyway, so modifying to fit my needs is something I was already planning on. I wanted to put some cup holders in the back, in the front, have some storage on top, and put a compartment in the front for the amps. I'm pretty sure there isn't really enough room to do all that with a ported box anyway, but I'd like to weigh out my options. I wanted to put one rear firing 12" in there, but I may also put 2 8"s in there, haven't really decided on anything yet, and probably won't until after I buy the equipment and I'm stuck with my decision.

 

[laidbackbigun]

3 Cuft3 sealed with a Sound Solutions Audio Xcon 15. Run off of a MTX Thunder Elite 1501d. Not my permannent solution but slams for now.

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[aaronb]

If you happen to think of it when you get to your computer, feel free to drop me a line. I was planning on using the plans as more of a guideline anyway, so modifying to fit my needs is something I was already planning on. I wanted to put some cup holders in the back, in the front, have some storage on top, and put a compartment in the front for the amps. I'm pretty sure there isn't really enough room to do all that with a ported box anyway, but I'd like to weigh out my options. I wanted to put one rear firing 12" in there, but I may also put 2 8"s in there, haven't really decided on anything yet, and probably won't until after I buy the equipment and I'm stuck with my decision.

heres the quick paint specs. where the dotted line is towards the front of it, is not airspace. the top front and port board should 34" long. with the port extension off of it around 5.25"x12. this should give you around 2 cu. ft after port. on paper it should be tuned around 38 htz, but with the way its designed will actually be tuned lower.
I actually miss this console, the sound was good and it could get pretty loud when you wanted to show off.

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[PapaGrune]

Maybe I am a little old school. I did have a great computer program that ran on MSDOS, Win3.1 and Win 95. My son won a few competitionso with a setup that I designed for his VW bug.... That's a little bit unfair as the bug is a great comp car for that.

Anyone use a bozzoka tub sub? I have but it has been years since I have done that... I have been out of that business since 2000

 

[ccreddell]

Ive built a few enclosures for these trucks, and have always used regular depth 10s. You can get some extra room by dynamatting the back wall and using the back of the cab as the back of your sub box. Has worked well for me. That being said, my next box (for my own truck) will be built with 2 8s. Plenty of room for them, wont have to worry about not being able to get my seat all the way back, and they dont need as much air space-so the available airspace will allow them to hit harder.

 

[RawbDidIt]

Surprisingly, I'm having more trouble deciding what to do with an extended cab than I would with a regular cab. I want to keep the rear seat so my dog has a place to chill when he rides with me, so that's pretty much the limiting factor. Otherwise I'd just rip out the seat and throw a set of 12's in a ported box back there. I like the response of 8's and 10's better, but I think I'm going to have to make due with 1 12.

 

[RawbDidIt]

heres the quick paint specs. where the dotted line is towards the front of it, is not airspace. the top front and port board should 34" long. with the port extension off of it around 5.25"x12. this should give you around 2 cu. ft after port. on paper it should be tuned around 38 htz, but with the way its designed will actually be tuned lower.
I actually miss this console, the sound was good and it could get pretty loud when you wanted to show off.

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Thanks for the pics. I do have a couple of questions though. The sub that I plan on installing in my truck is a Rockford Fosgate 12" (link posted below). The recommended ported box for this sub calls for a volume of 1.79 ft^3, with a port diameter and length of 4"x10". Following those guidelines, I come up with a box that looks more like this:

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15" in depth. Overall port length 30" port width 12" port height 2.5"

Is there anything that I'm doing wrong here, or would this work? The port shown would be 4" in diameter, not the full depth of the box. Building it this way would give me room to put the amps beside and above the ports, with room for storage and cupholders on the top.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/p3d4-12

 

[aaronb]

The port their probably using is a round port, not a slot port like I have.
Aero ports don't take up as much space as a slot port. If I get home at a decent time today I'll try and play with some specs on that console to shrink it down some. With that console, the front part isn't airspace. I wanted it blend in the best way with the dash.

 

[BerHntr]

If it's just your dog that mainly rides back there you could just lift your rear seat. Thats what I did and was able to put 2 12's front firing under the rear seat. I've since taken the lift off though. I think it might still be riding around in my toolbox. If you want it its yours, just pay for shipping.

 

[RawbDidIt]

If it's just your dog that mainly rides back there you could just lift your rear seat. Thats what I did and was able to put 2 12's front firing under the rear seat. I've since taken the lift off though. I think it might still be riding around in my toolbox. If you want it its yours, just pay for shipping.

Thanks for the offer, but I would like to have the option of having people in the back. Didn't think I'd ever need the people room, but when we last went out we got the other truck stuck and needed to haul 5 people, and 2 dogs out of the boonies back to town so we could get the big truck to pull it out. Luckily I didn't get stuck, unluckily, 3 adults had to cram in the back seat for 20 miles. It was at this point I was married to the idea of keeping the back seat stock.

I found a company that makes a low profile box that fits under the seat, but it would require 2 shallow 12's to get the output I'm after, and that means moving the toolbox to the bed, which I'd rather not do, and finding a place for the amps is really difficult considering I've got power seats. Now that I've priced the cost of materials, it really makes no sense to compromise. Using Aaronb's plans as a basic guideline, I was able to house the subwoofer with the manufacturer's recommendations and tune it to around 33Hz, while providing a spot for 2 amps, and LED lit cup holders front and back.

My only real concern at this point is how this is all going to sound. I've never seen a ported box with the port on the opposite side of the subwoofer, and that makes me think it might not be a good idea. The phrase "sometimes there's a reason nobody's done it before," is something I say quite often, and I'm hoping I don't have to say it about myself this time. I'm hoping it isn't common because it's rare that opposite sides of the box both face the area you're trying to send sound to.

Anyway, I've rambled on way longer than necessary, and I'm totally stealing the thunder of the OP. If you're still interested in continuing this discussion, I have a thread for this very topic. Link below.

http://www.gmt400.com/threads/audio-recommendations.37494/