4 Hi Headlight Mod

[shovelbill]

Any more install pics from anyone of my harnesses? Curious as to the feedback!

what feed back?
.....i have the best harness i could ask for......my harness doesn't give me any feedback, just 14.4 volts to the bulbs

 

[kennythewelder]

I just made my own harness. It wasn't hard to do.

 

[shovelbill]

I just made my own harness. It wasn't hard to do.

well....."hard" is a subjective term. LOL.

i don't think it's hard to white-line my Harley at 60MPH on the highway while traffic is going 30....but other riders may (and do) have a hard time merging into traffic from an on-ramp at 50.....different strokes for different folks.

doing an itemized tax return is hard for me......fu@k that.

everyone has different skill sets or resources to work with.....i've built my own harnesses in the past....but lacked the energy, mobility and time to do this one. tracking down my tools, the components and such was an arduous task at best for me.....i weighed my options and found a great supplier for what we need....plug and play don't get much better than this....gmachinz to the rescue.

i always advocate for folks to do as much as they can.....encourage doing new things and learning the how and the why things work. i'd hazard a guess there's a comprehensive video or two on youtube to do just that......hell, with youtube and a mirror i could do brain surgery on myself, right? LMAO!!!

besides....i was trying to figure out how to do away with my DRL's....my harness came with a mini-circuit to switch them on and off......i thought that cool as hell......and i didn't sprain my brain to do it......

 

[code]

there's pics around....but i'll say this;

there's too many variables between trucks to show what the difference would be in YOUR truck....the condition of the lenses(cracked, crazed, brittle, yellowed etc) the age and condition of the reflectors...the bulb...the resistance and voltage drop in the stock harness.

let's just say the lights sucked from the factory new, compared to other vehicles of the time......time hurts that more than anything. if you do ONE thing to improve your system it's change the lenses to brand new OEM. then SEE that difference......then put in good performance bulbs(we have our favorites)....THEN put in a proper harness......the difference is night and day, no joke.

it's really the first thing i did beyond what i HAD to do to this "new to me" truck....i've been upgrading headlight systems since the early '80's as a rule to any vehicle i own. it's THAT important to me to have the best safety system i can......and i suggest you do the same.

do it in stages,the end result is three components anyway...stop where you want or just toss doubt to the wind and jump in and do it right.......do NOT buy $30 **** lights on ebay and do NOT buy **** blue bulbs.

my opinion is worth what ya paid fer it.....LOL

Thanks for that. I was really just talking benchmark as I know variables between trucks can be vastly different.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

 

[kennythewelder]

well....."hard" is a subjective term. LOL.

i don't think it's hard to white-line my Harley at 60MPH on the highway while traffic is going 30....but other riders may (and do) have a hard time merging into traffic from an on-ramp at 50.....different strokes for different folks.

doing an itemized tax return is hard for me......fu@k that.

everyone has different skill sets or resources to work with.....i've built my own harnesses in the past....but lacked the energy, mobility and time to do this one. tracking down my tools, the components and such was an arduous task at best for me.....i weighed my options and found a great supplier for what we need....plug and play don't get much better than this....gmachinz to the rescue.

i always advocate for folks to do as much as they can.....encourage doing new things and learning the how and the why things work. i'd hazard a guess there's a comprehensive video or two on youtube to do just that......hell, with youtube and a mirror i could do brain surgery on myself, right? LMAO!!!

besides....i was trying to figure out how to do away with my DRL's....my harness came with a mini-circuit to switch them on and off......i thought that cool as hell......and i didn't sprain my brain to do it......

Yea, hard is a relative term. LOL I am a tight wad, and like it when I can do things on the cheep, that is just as good and even better in most cases. I guess thats why I can do so many things. I can't see paying some else to do what I could do myself, and I get things the way I want them. I do not like a half ass job. I like it to look OE but better.

 

[shovelbill]

Yea, hard is a relative term. LOL I am a tight wad, and like it when I can do things on the cheep, that is just as good and even better in most cases. I guess thats why I can do so many things. I can see paying some else to do what I could do myself, and I get things the way I want them. I do not like a half ass job. I like it to look OE but better.

yew get the "COB" award for the day!

 

[ZSEVEN1]

Anybody that got their harness from LMC know what the part number is?

Thanks



*EDIT*

Found it......36-3595

 

[Spode]

So I built my harness this week. Pretty confident I have everything right. Relay for both high/low beam. Diode going from feed that triggers high relay, to feed that triggers low relay. So when highs are on both relays get triggered. My only question, instead of tying in at headlight switch, or even into the wire bundle near fuse box, can't I just tie in to the positive side of the existing 9005 and 9006 plugs that way I'm not splicing into any of the factory wiring?

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[kennythewelder]

You want to tie in at the battery. The headlight wiring goes through the radiator core support bracket next to the battery. You will need to splice in there. The reason you want to tie in @ the battery, is because your headlights will be about 300 percent brighter. It makes a huge difference when the headlight supply comes straight off of the battery. You will also need to disable the DRLs also. The DRLs will trigger your relay. I know mine looks a little sloppy, but you can see where it is and what I have done for the most part. Once my battery is in place, it covers up the exposed wires. I have 1 relay for the 4 high, and the other relay for the low beams. The large red wire is my supply for the headlights. I cut the supply for the low beams, and used it as my switch wire. I had to pull the fuse for the DRLs. this triggered the relay on the low beam side. Oh and I know there is a lot of tape there, but all my splices are soldered and head shrunk then taped. Also the tape is my water proofing.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Spode]

You want to tie in at the battery. The headlight wiring goes through the radiator core support bracket next to the battery. You will need to splice in there. The reason you want to tie in @ the battery, is because your headlights will be about 300 percent brighter. It makes a huge difference when the headlight supply comes straight off of the battery. You will also need to disable the DRLs also. The DRLs will trigger your relay. I know mine looks a little sloppy, but you can see where it is and what I have done for the most part. Once my battery is in place, it covers up the exposed wires. I have 1 relay for the 4 high, and the other relay for the low beams. The large red wire is my supply for the headlights. I cut the supply for the low beams, and used it as my switch wire. I had to pull the fuse for the DRLs. this triggered the relay on the low beam side. Oh and I know there is a lot of tape there, but all my splices are soldered and head shrunk then taped. Also the tape is my water proofing.

You must be registered for see images attach

I'm sorry, I wasn't clear. Yes my main power will come from the battery. I just meant to trigger the relay. The orange wires with fuse holders are for power direct to battery. The yellow and blue are the two to trigger the relays.