Deadbeats 1997 Centurion Conversion

[RyanMerrick]

I lightly wire wheeled and thoroughly cleaned my driveshaft before painting. After it was dry I put my rear end up on jack stands and rotated the driveshaft as I brushed on two thin, uniform coats. I didn't have any balance issues afterwards using Chassis Saver; POR15 is very similar.

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[deadbeat]

That looks really good. I got my gas tank and exhaust put back on last night, would post the photo but I left the phone at home. I think when I get it started i'll leave it on the jack stands and let it turn slowly in first and just shoot some rustoleum black on it. Before anyone goes off about safety, that is no different than me turning it on my lathe and painting it, I just don't have a bed that long.

 

[RyanMerrick]

Haha I guess. I would leave the wheels off though so there's less chance of getting caught by the tire (or the small chance of the truck driving away, if it fell off the stands).

 

[deadbeat]

Honestly, that is how my dad used to check totals to see if the axles were bent, the end would move. Never had one come off those good stands he has in over 25 years.

 

[deadbeat]

Got the nylon fuel lines hooked up and the truck started, they worked great but I only ran the back to the fuel filter area. I still need to put a strap on two back on but here are a few pics.

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[deadbeat]

Drove it down the road, still can't get back brakes to bleed out good. Leaving them over night and doing 2 man bleeding, they pump up good and bleed good 1 time, after that there is no pressure and the pedal does not go down. Not sure what is wrong, never had it happen before. I replaced them from the front of the cab back. I know its air just not sure how to get it out. I even opened the bleeder on the farthest one away and let it drip for an hour last night, it slowly dripped less and less the whole time. Here is a pic of it and my dads ccsb in the drive.

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[deadbeat]

The reason the brakes wouldn't bleed was the abs box. I could bleed the line going into it for the back brakes and it had lots of pressure. Could do the same for the one going out and it would barely drip. Had to start the truck to get it to start to bleed. Then had to get it going 30 mph down gravel and lock up to get it to cycle. Put the bed on and the gaps are not right between cab and bed. Seems I got them out of whack when I put the gmt800 cab mounts on with my bed off. I'll get that all lined out in the morning.

 

[deadbeat]

Got the truck put back together yesterday and drove it some. My dad is supposed to take it to the exhaust shop today to get it quiet. After all this work is drives as smooth as my 2010 civic. All the work seems to have been worth it. Put some bucket seats in it yesterday, still need to drill some holes for drivers one but overall I think I will like them. Need to get a Ford F150 2004 console to put in it, still got to find one. The truck hasn't had reverse lights or interior lights since I got it. Not sure why the reverse lights don't work, the interior light fuse blows immediately when you put one in, so it has a dead short. Not really sure where to start on either of those issues.

 

[deadbeat]

For the fuse immediately blowing for the interior lights, do you think I should be looking for a hot wire touching metal, maybe a screw through one? Does anyone happen to know what color wire the hot is to the lights and maybe where it runs?

 

[volunteerff21]

For the fuse immediately blowing for the interior lights, do you think I should be looking for a hot wire touching metal, maybe a screw through one? Does anyone happen to know what color wire the hot is to the lights and maybe where it runs?

Not sure on the colors, but everything for the dome and console lights runs up the drivers side a-pillar and then under the headliner.