Rough Country 4"/6" kit install tips.

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Update on my install...

kicker braces are bolted up but I had to drill my own holes. ABS light is on due to a gear swap and speedo is also off. Job took 2 days to do on a lift. It fit like crap and I will never suggest this kit to anyone who wheels their truck. If I ever do it again, I will go with a knuckle lift from a better company.
You did it on your two door Tahoe right? I didn't have any major fitment issues on my truck.
 

BOTTLEDZ28

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You did it on your two door Tahoe right? I didn't have any major fitment issues on my truck.


Yes, Biggest issues were the control arms not going into the new brackets without some serious force. The bushings were new but it still shouldnt have been so difficult to reinstall them. Kicker braces pissed me off. Steering arm bracket had a 1/2-13 threaded hole in it that needed to be repaired since the threads were destroyed. The bag that contained the 4 rubber bushings for the kicker braces had 3 correct ones and 1 incorrect one. It was way to big for the brace so I had to call them and force them to overnight me a new bag that contained the correct parts. I had to ream the holes out on the frame for the top drop bracket. The existing hole in the bracket didnt line up with the existing holes in the front of the frame rail. And now I need to come up with a plan to drain my oil without it getting all over the cheap skid plate.
 
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df2x4

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Damn, that sounds like a lot of headache for something that's supposed to be a pretty straightforward kit. I'd be a little upset, too.
 

SwampHound

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Yes, Biggest issues were the control arms not going into the new brackets without some serious force. The bushings were new but it still shouldnt have been so difficult to reinstall them. Kicker braces pissed me off. Steering arm bracket had a 1/2-13 threaded hole in it that needed to be repaired since the threads were destroyed. The bag that contained the 4 rubber bushings for the kicker braces had 3 correct ones and 1 incorrect one. It was way to big for the brace so I had to call them and force them to overnight me a new bag that contained the correct parts. I had to ream the holes out on the frame for the top drop bracket. The existing hole in the bracket didnt line up with the existing holes in the front of the frame rail. And now I need to come up with a plan to drain my oil without it getting all over the cheap skid plate.
That is some serious suckage, and serious BS. A bit of advice I can offer you on draining oil, get a cheap Frisbee from Walmart, and cut 1/4 of the "lip" off. Stick that on your skid plate so it catches oil, then stick your oil pan underneath. Drains it perfectly.
 

bluex

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That is some serious suckage, and serious BS. A bit of advice I can offer you on draining oil, get a cheap Frisbee from Walmart, and cut 1/4 of the "lip" off. Stick that on your skid plate so it catches oil, then stick your oil pan underneath. Drains it perfectly.

This is a good idea here. I used an oil drain valve on mine but man it was slow to drain the oil out. Putting the tube on it avoided all the mess though.
 

bluex

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Yes, Biggest issues were the control arms not going into the new brackets without some serious force. The bushings were new but it still shouldnt have been so difficult to reinstall them. Kicker braces pissed me off. Steering arm bracket had a 1/2-13 threaded hole in it that needed to be repaired since the threads were destroyed. The bag that contained the 4 rubber bushings for the kicker braces had 3 correct ones and 1 incorrect one. It was way to big for the brace so I had to call them and force them to overnight me a new bag that contained the correct parts. I had to ream the holes out on the frame for the top drop bracket. The existing hole in the bracket didnt line up with the existing holes in the front of the frame rail. And now I need to come up with a plan to drain my oil without it getting all over the cheap skid plate.

Interesting, my kicker bars came with the bushings in them already I think. I also got my kit out of there scratch and dent store to so that might be why. On the drop bracket are you talking about the hole in the very front of it? That one has to be drilled from what I remember.
 

BOTTLEDZ28

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Interesting, my kicker bars came with the bushings in them already I think. I also got my kit out of there scratch and dent store to so that might be why. On the drop bracket are you talking about the hole in the very front of it? That one has to be drilled from what I remember.


Actually, I made a mistake writing that. I was referring to the rear hole that required the long metal bushing that goes into the frame.

Ive installed a lot of aftermarket parts on vehicles over the last 20 years. Some went good, some went bad. This kit went so so. If I lift another gmt400 truck, I wont use this kit. Ive been driving the truck for a 3 days now and so far, there are no big issues. I do plan on putting 5100s in it because the shocks supplied with the kit seem to give me a bumpy ride.
 

BOTTLEDZ28

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What did you guys do with your front driveshafts? Did you rebuild them? Ive heard there is a new slip yoke from Spicer that is supposed to eliminate that clunking noise on take off. Spicer 3-3-6871X.

Id like to also put new U joints in it as well. Anyone use that Spicer yoke? Ill work on the driveshaft while I figure out what Im going to do about the ypipe
 

90W7

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What did you guys do with your front driveshafts? Did you rebuild them? Ive heard there is a new slip yoke from Spicer that is supposed to eliminate that clunking noise on take off. Spicer 3-3-6871X.

Id like to also put new U joints in it as well. Anyone use that Spicer yoke? Ill work on the driveshaft while I figure out what Im going to do about the ypipe
Is that just a longer slip yoke?
 

99'Subourbon

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Our labor rates are $65 per hour. The typical GMT400 kit is about 10 hours, so can expect to shell out $650 for installation. However on the plus side, due to the age of these trucks the suspension components almost always need to be replaced for safe lift installation. So we typically replace the worn parts (ball joints, tie rods, pitman, idler arms, etc) at no additional labor cost. Its a fairly substantial savings considering the amount of labor involved just those components.

One trick I would recommend that I found, the sway bar end links on these trucks are a solid bolt with rubber on each end and sleeve in the middle. Its terrible design and wears out quite easily. Use Part # K750362 to replace it when you do your lift and you will be much happier. It is a greaseable Moog link that has joint on each end of it. This will allow for greater flex/life and easier installation than a stock replacement for a Chevy/GMC. Warning to you diehards that is a replacement part for a 2010-Up Ford F150. I found that part to work out of shear frustration trying to install the GM unit into the lower control arm.

I know this is an old post, but has anyone tried using those sway bar end links? When I redid my front suspension, those things were a B!!!!!!TCH. I'd gladly replace them with the item he linked.
 
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