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12-10-2012, 09:01 PM #1
HOW TO: Fix Bouncy/Hummingbird Fuel Gauge Needle
First, you need your supplies. I bought 30k R/C car diff oil, and it works great:
Then, you'll need some 3ML syringes (without needles):
Now you have all you need.
1) VERY IMPORTANT: Turn key forward to "ON" position, and take a GOOD picture of where your fuel needle is.
2) Turn key off.
3) Remove dash bezel, unplug headlights, cargo lamp switch, air bag switch, and 4x4 switch.
4) Remove 4 screws holding in gauge cluster (they are 7MM hex head screws).
5) Pull gauge cluster, it will come right out.
6) Take inside and put on a table face up. Pull the clear part by pressing the tabs in on the sides.
7) Take a kitchen fork (the kind you eat food with) and gently pry up on the fuel needle with it, going back and forth. Needle should slide up and off.
8) IMPORTANT: Hold bottle of oil downwards until oil is coming out. Then put syringe into opening and pull back about 1/2" of oil.
9) Turn syringe up and press the plunger until the air is removed.
*NOTE* It takes a lot of time for air to move through this oil. Be patient with the bubbles. Make sure the big ones come up and out.
10) Press syringe over needle post and firmly push down, but not too hard as to break it.
11) Pull up on the plunger. You should see a bubble come up into the syringe, you are creating a vacuum in the gauge. It will take a LONG time for that bubble to reach the top, but be patient. It is important that it does. Make sure you maintain downward pressure.
12) Slowly release the plunger and let the oil into the gauge, while holding pressure still.
13) Let it sit for a few minutes, and repeat the procedure a few times.
14) Put cluster, AS IS!, back into truck. Push it back so that it connects.
15) Turn key forward to "ON". Put fuel needle back on in the position it was in in your picture. Turn key off.
16) Reattach clear piece, then replace the 4 screws.
17) Reinstall dash bezel and plug everything back in.
You are done! The first time you have the key on it may bounce and vibrate a little, but as the oil coats everything it should dampen it a LOT. Mine was terribly bouncy and looked blurry it was vibrating so fast, now it looks just like any of my other gauges.
Last edited by ChrisAU; 12-11-2012 at 07:30 PM.
94 GMC ECSB Z-71 (8/14 - Current): 3" BL, 1.5" Crank/Block, 35x12.5 BFG MT KM2's on 15x8 Pro Comp 1069s, Logan's Off Road Bumpers, 10k Winch
98 Chevy ECSB Z-71 (7/14 - 8/14)
92 GMC->Chevy ECSB Z-71 (9/11 - 2/14) *July 2012 TOTM*
98 Chevy ECSB Z-71 (9/12 - 1/13)
92 Chevy RCSB Z-71 (3/05 - 5/07)
93 GMC RCSB Z-71 (11/04 - 1/05)
12-10-2012, 09:07 PM #2
Awesome! Subd. Gotta do this soon lol
12-10-2012, 09:10 PM #3
Nice write up sir
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12-10-2012, 10:09 PM #4
hells yes dude, I'm needing this mod terribly bad
Green 1998 GMC RCSB, 5.7 z71, cats no mufflers, 1.6:1 scorpion aluminum roller rockers, Superchips handheld, underdrive crank pulley, ORD Shackle flip and u-bolt flip kit, 17x9 MT Classics, Mickey Thompson Claws 35x12.50.17, 6inch Rough Country, no sway bar, fully debadged, diesel bumper, All LEDs, 2inch wheel spacers, and some custom paint/body modifications
Grey 1999 Silverado classic ECSB, 5.7, Hellwig 1 1/8 rear sway bar, underdrive crank, all LEDs
12-10-2012, 10:39 PM #5
Great write up C1....all ill need to do this if i ever need to is the syringes lol
Nothing to see here....
12-10-2012, 10:52 PM #6
Interesting! Would have never guessed to do something like this
12-10-2012, 11:34 PM #7
12-10-2012, 11:39 PM #8
12-10-2012, 11:50 PM #9
12-11-2012, 12:53 AM #10
Good post, a lot of people have had this problem and this will help them out, I also stuck this for you!
95 CC stepside with a 408 stroker LS motor from Texas Speed and built 4L80E
04 Tahoe lowered 3-5, DD
93 2DR Blazer 2wd swap in progress
90 Nissan nice and low, high MPG truck
00 Chevy CC Dually Tow Pig
98 Dodge 2500 with a Cummins-Tow beast
94 Chevy G-30 1 ton tow pig
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