Transfer case clocking ring

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92SAS

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I'm new to this site and it looks like this might be the site I've been looking for.
This is my first post.

Any way i have a 1992 RCSB SAS, dana60 front 4.88's powerlock limited slip, 14bolt FF 4.88's Detroit rear
SYE, transfer case parking brake, drive shafts front and rear from High Angle Driveline.

I had to adjust caster angle on the 60 with 4 degree shims which compromised front pinion angle at full droop. I have clocking ring (3/8" thick) to help with the situation that I have not installed yet.

Here are my questions.
1. Will I have enough spline engagment?
2. Will there be any lube problems?
3. Can any one that has done this can can share your advice, experince?

Thanks
 

Mike

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Welcome, cajun4x4 and bggreenchvy both have this done and could answer your question directly if you PM them. I think that if everything is set up right you won't have any problems. Talk to the clocking ring manufacturer.
 

Cajun4x4

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1. Will I have enough spline engagement?
yes
2. Will there be any lube problems?
no
3. Can any one that has done this can can share your advice, experience?
like mike has said ive used a clocking ring in the past and definitely have some experiences that need to be shared.. first of all do NOT double nut the studs into the clocking ring after you have installed it onto the tcase because you will destroy the mating surface. id also suggest using paper gaskets just to make sure everything seals up nice, i had problems with leaks but they where more to do with the fact that i destroyed the mating surface where the ring bolts to the tcase than the fact that i used RTV lol

are you planning on clocking your tcase down? if so i would advise against this, even though your front shaft angle will be a lil steeper its worth it to keep the tcase tucked up in the frame rails
 

92SAS

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I would love to Not have to do this, but with the shims for caster adjustment
it leaves no room at the pinion for axle droop.
I have an offset 1410 ujoint in there now to help but it vibrates pretty good at 20mph
not that I would be driving in 4wd on the street, but was thinking about wheel speed in the mud.
I already cracked 1 front case half I don't want to do it again or destroy my pinion bearings

I would love to cut and turn the inner c's but I don't have the guts to to it myself,
and I can't afford to pay some one to do it.
So I need less expensive and less involved ideas, I'm ready to take the truck out
May be over the winter i'll get up the balls to cut a turn the c's.
 

92SAS

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How Big??
Well I have about 7" in front and about 8" in the rear.
315/75/16 BFG MT's

1992 Chevy 1/2 ton (was) 60/14ff now
 

bggrnchvy

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So how can you possibly be out of angle at the pinion with a 1410 joint?

I'm sure Jesse hooked you up with at least a 1350CV at the t-case. You should have plenty of angle left at the pinion. I know I've never had a binding issue at the pinion with a 1310, the only angle problems I ever had were at the case. A 1350Cv from a Dodge HD clearanced a bit fixed that as well.
 

92SAS

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Well!? maybe I'm looking at things wrong?
I had the truck jacked up a couple of weeks ago by the pass. side frame.
when I tried to turn the front shaft it was binding.
Now I have jacked it up as high as my jack will go by the axle on either and it does not bind!?
Mind you this is no flex monster, but am I looking at things correctly or is there a better way
to check for binding when flexed.

Thanks for all the input
This is my first project and I want to do this right.
 

bggrnchvy

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There must be something I'm missing.

Any chance you could get a couple good picture to show where you're at at ride height?
 
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