I had them on two of my trucks and kept breaking the axle end off, they did help level the truck a little with a load on the half ton but the 3/4 ton it was just a waste. Now have 4600s on both and much happier lol.
Most of the 305 lore is based on myths the only difference is about 1/4 inch bore size and smaller combustion chambers. I've had people swear they had a 350 until I ran the block number and it was a 305.
I think some dually lugnuts have a spinning washer on bottom but do not go into the wheel such as this one in the link.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2477774&cc=1433120&pt=7676&jsn=676&optionchoice=0-0-0-1
I believe its a metric 8x1.25 but its been awhile since I put one in. If there isn't a nut clipped in the fender then can use whatever size you come up with a nut for. Some have the nut and some don't. The factory bolt is about an inch long.
If you jumper the low side cycling switch on the accumulator and the clutch engages the rest of the circuit is working to include the control head. I would look at the cycling switch and verify pressures as referenced by Orpedcrow.
Was replying to HotWheelsBurban saying cost $85 to get a new ford key. As far as I know there are not any GMT400's that have program keys, just the ignition lock cylinder on 98+ has to be synced if it is replaced.
You should be able to go to your local GM dealer and get them to pull the key code, provided its still the original lock cylinder. I had them pull mine on the 99 Suburban I got a few months ago. Will probably need proof of ownership and ID but a lot of locksmiths are asking for that now days.
Mine does lol one of the perks of the "0411 Swap" is you can add a momentary switch to ground pin 71 I think to put it in and out tow/haul mode. Has to be programmed into it though.